Lutz Huelle is already a regular on the Paris Fashion Week schedule with his label LUTZ, which he founded in 2000 in collaboration with art director David Ballu. Lutz always manages to refresh his style with quiet futuristic statements while remaining true to the evolution of his brand at the same time, and each season is linked to the past one through subtle details – like the idea of allowing movement within fabrics, which was present in the last spring/summer collection through silk incrusts into sleeves, that now reappears with the use of light silk throughout the autumn/winter 2011/12 collection. We caught up with the designer backstage after his show:
“With Soft Armor, the idea was to dress a woman in clothes that cover and protect her and at the same time, I wanted to give to rigid and heavy fabrics a certain lightness”, explains Lutz.
In this particular state of mind, softness and harshness react with and against each other: fluid silk dresses team up with deconstructed coats and jackets, soft knits and cashmeres are printed with a silver film, that creates an iridescent effect, coming close to the idea of wearing pieces of armor.
“Fluidity and deconstruction reacting with each other was a main inspiration for this new collection, I already worked with these thoughts on my past spring collection, it is important for me to keep an idea alive from one collection to another.”
A concept that was obviously appreciated by the public, as buyers and press immediately rushed into the backstage after the show to compliment the designer. “It is always a weird feeling, working on a collection for 6 month feels like going through a black tunnel and when you finally reach the exit, you never know if it is going to shine or rain outside!” Well, considering the cheerful acclaims in the backstage, we’d say that the weather is more than gorgeous this time!
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