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The German designer Lutz Huelle has probably never been so relevant as now, what with the Vetements revolution sparking a revival of the subversive street uniform that Huelle has riffed on for over a decade. He is a specialist in bomber jackets (and has dedicated entire collections to deconstructing them), and they featured prominently in this latest outing too, as a part of his concept for shrinking oversized garments and patch-working daywear and eveningwear together as one.
Here he cinched them in with clear belts that revealed the conceit of bomber and denim jacket patterns panelled into wool felt coats or swathes of golden sequins. The effect was unsettling and sexy all at once. Elsewhere he spliced sweatshirt sleeves onto pleated column dresses, in an act that felt more radical than the zipped pencil skirts, cowled jersey dresses and menswear shirting that felt like filler amongst his bolder design statements. Thankfully those gave ample food for thought.