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Hélène Guillaume on Lutz Huelle, LE FIGARO, Paris
LUTZ HUELLE No.25 F/W 2012 ‘THE RAIN’ Inspired by watching people covering themselves in a sudden burst of rain – pulling the collar of a jacket closer together, or even up over the head or draping a scarf or sweater over the shoulders, this collection became all about the silhouette : Volume on top, highwaisted, with a line drawn just under the bust by pants and long gloves. It also became very much about everything I have always loved : The draping of everyday garments (in this case a biker jacket that is elongated and oversized in the front, or has it’s sleeves shortened to be worn with zipped gloves, and a tailored overcoat that has its’ volume in the front tripled) Then there are the sportswear influences : elastic cutouts in pleated dresses – turning the pleats into a graphic motif – and in tailored pants. In the knitwear, Alpaca worked with Lycra in a jaquard turns cardigans into featherlight, highly extensible Overcoats. The superhighwaisted pants from my Debut is back, this time tapered at the leg and finished with a large elastic hem. Capes are zipped open and worn as shortsleeved coats, widening the shoulder. Fabrics are partly coated with a rainproof film to protect and add shine to matt surfaces. Finally, Ankleboots are made of smocked leather.
LUTZ HUELLE F/W 12 ‘THE RAIN’ The Video of the Show
Show Paris Fashion Week March 2012