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‘LUTZ, LE PARTI DU VETEMENT’ Olivier Saillard on Lutz in VOGUE PARIS

lutzhuelleDecember 31, 2002November 3, 2014F/W 2002 'Flowerparka'

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Previous No.5 ‘FLOWERPARKA’ Backstage

Next LUTZ HUELLE NO.7 F/W 2003 ‘THE SMITHS AT THE DISCO’ Listening to The Smiths’ ‘The Queen is dead’ on repeat.. the idea of mixing Glitter and the Ordinary : a Men’s Blazer with Fringes, striped Shirting is worn with sequinned TShirts, Sweatshirts in grey Jersey have wide glittering hems. A striped Mohair Sweater is draped around the Body. I asked myself: ‘How can I put the aggressive, ‘street’ attitude of a Bomberjacket into a pleated dress? The result was this: I fixed some of the pleats so they didn’t move, cut the shape of a Bomber ( those pockets, the rib finishing) into the pleats as if it was a flat fabric, then left the rest of the pleats open to move freely. Ideas from this collection keep on coming up in later collections, especially the fixed/nonfixed pleats that I’m still using today.

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