Titled “Le Pyjama Rose” Lutz Huelle’s spring presentation film showed his pieces on women of various body types, styles and ages. The designs grew out of an extended period of inactivity, he explained, in a FaceTime call. “It almost seemed obscene thinking about fashion with people being in so much pain — it took me a month of thinking,” said Huelle, recalling his struggle to find purpose in work at the beginning of the lockdown period. “And then I realized, I have to start where I am and the first thing I looked at was the pyjama,” he said, popping out of his seat to grab his latest creation. Wow! The screen went pink — hot pink. Here was the star of the lineup, a pair of pyjamas made of a silky viscose — “you can put it in the machine, you can use it forever.”He wanted the ensemble to make people feel good lounging about the house, but also be able to wear it outside, even to go dancing, when such activities resume.” Mimosa Spencer on Lutz Huelle Spring Summer 21 on WWD.

Along a similar vein, Huelle constructed a pouffy-sleeved housecoat, made of taffeta, and he demonstrated how the scrunched sleeves could…

LUTZ HUELLE ‘LE PYJAMA ROSE’ Spring/Summer 2021 “Having spent more time in bed in the last 6 months than ever before in my life made me think about clothes to wear in bed or at home lounging on a sofa doing very little. I realised that a pair of pyjamas is really just a -very comfortable- 2 piece suit, which made me think about home-wear in general, and how to transport the idea of the coziness and security of home into the outside world. The pyjamas became a suit of pants and roomy shirt, made in the same washed pink satin it is both perfect to sleep in and go out dancing as soon as the occasion arises again.”

A bathrobe with hydrangea-shaped sleeves is cut in a featherlight taffetas and can be worn either at home with very…

“It might be that simple and irresistible with Huelle: an ongoing dialogue between plain and fancy. A raw-hemmed denim skirt paired with a green duchesse blouse with dramatic bell sleeves? Quintessential. A jean skirt twisted sideways worn under an immaculately tailored jacket with gathered shoulders? Lutz at his most direct. Though the cotton poplin shirt dress came a close second. The soundtrack was a jukebox of his favourite songs: “You’re So Vain”, Iggy’s “Lust for Life”, Britney’s ”Toxic”, the Slits’ “Heard it Through the Grapevine”. You can look forward to hearing those songs forever. Now imagine feeling the same way about your clothes. Or don’t, because Lutz already did it for you.” Tim Blanks on Lutz Huelle FW 20 on BUSINESS OF FASHION

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Best of 2019! This year was a strange one- on the one hand it feels that it has never been as important to be forward-looking and modern, on the other it seems that people crave nothing more than security and familiarity in a world that is increasingly less so. Even though there are few things I like less than looking back and holding on to the past, both my collections in 2019 were inspired by a longing for security: The idea of wearing couture-inspired clothes while doing mundane things like travelling (FW19) and my hommage to Paris (SS20) were both born out of a feeling of being grateful for the reassuring things in life. The Lantern Shirt and the Cape-Bomber, the Denim-Trench and the T-Jacket in Checked Cotton Twill over a dotted skirt in transparent tulle were some of this years favourite looks and my personal favourites were the long Fan-Skirts in Jacquard worn with black or white Mohair Sweaters from F/W 19 and the Men’s shirt in white cotton worn under a transparent tulle skirt from the S/S 20 Collection. I’m looking forward to 2020, in spite of everything. It’s always darkest just before dawn. Happy Holidays to all!