‘The Best German Fashion Designers’ Markus Ebner on Lutz Huelle @Goethe Institute: ‘Whoever markets his fashion for fifteen years simply under the first name “Lutz,” as Lutz Huelle does, likes to stick to essentials. He needs neither distant historical periods nor geographical preference for inspiration: he finds it solely in the garment itself. Huelle works away with painstaking attention to details, transforming them in unconventional ways and modernizing their traditional function without much fuss –but with high standards, especially for himself. Perhaps this is one of the reasons why the designer, who was born in Remscheid, and his collections were always better located in Paris – where he has lived for quite some time – than in Germany. Lutz Huelle made a name for himself in the nineties as Wolfgang Tillman’s model and is a mainstay of the photo artist’s creative gang.’


LUTZ HUELLE F/W 2015 Life in ‘The Snake’ “Visiting Francois Roche’s futuristic all-white Paris apartment ‘The Snake’ I started wondering what it would feel like to live in a place where every little detail was designed in the most perfect and beautiful way, and where even getting up in the morning and shuffling into the kitchen for coffee with the blanket thrown over the shoulders would turn into a tableau.” Lengths and squares of fabric (the simplest of shapes) became constructed capes and coats. Shirts were turned into graphic dresses by adding different textures and accessories. Thick black-and-white Aran knits are worked to resemble lace, and straight pleats are mixed with a high-performance wool to create pleated dresses that might be worn like sweatshirts. Finally, a navy blue double wool was combined with silver shearling for a series of pea-coats that are classic and futuristic at the same time.

The German designer Lutz Huelle has a quiet yet illustrious design history in Paris, having crossed over after his London studies to assist Martin Margiela, when Margiela was still at the helm of his Maison. Today, Lutz’s own label holds similar values—his aesthetic being concerned with recontextualizing parts of garments in an eclectic yet elegant melange. For fall 2014, part of that strangeness came from the sinuous whiteness of architect François Roche’s futurist house, the Snake, where Lutz held a live shoot for guests to observe, photographed by Arnaud Lajeunie. The luminous, curvilinear space was the perfect backdrop for the designer’s crisp poplin blouse wrapped in black silk tulle—a piece that captured the sense of chiaroscuro that underlined his collection in the tone, texture, and weight of fabrics. Whilst the black “space flower” print that sprayed across a high-necked blouse felt less compelling, Lutz’s silvery shearling held a wintery freshness when paneled into a navy overcoat, as did the comfy mohair knits that popped in vermilion and electric blue. Thawley on Lutz Huelle F/W 2014 on VOGUE.FR

The German designer Lutz Huelle has a quiet yet illustrious design history in Paris, having crossed over after his London … More