LUTZ HUELLE No.25 F/W 2012 ‘THE RAIN’ Inspired by watching people covering themselves in a sudden burst of rain – pulling the collar of a jacket closer together, or even up over the head or draping a scarf or sweater over the shoulders, this collection became all about the silhouette : Volume on top, highwaisted, with a line drawn just under the bust by pants and long gloves. It also became very much about everything I have always loved : The draping of everyday garments (in this case a biker jacket that is elongated and oversized in the front, or has it’s sleeves shortened to be worn with zipped gloves, and a tailored overcoat that has its’ volume in the front tripled) Then there are the sportswear influences : elastic cutouts in pleated dresses – turning the pleats into a graphic motif – and in tailored pants. In the knitwear, Alpaca worked with Lycra in a jaquard turns cardigans into featherlight, highly extensible Overcoats. The superhighwaisted pants from my Debut is back, this time tapered at the leg and finished with a large elastic hem. Capes are zipped open and worn as shortsleeved coats, widening the shoulder. Fabrics are partly coated with a rainproof film to protect and add shine to matt surfaces. Finally, Ankleboots are made of smocked leather.

‘Lutz Huelle was inspired to design his Fall/Winter 2012/2013 collection while watching people cover themselves up in response to sudden unexpected rain showers. Huelle was interested in the way people threw clothes over their heads, and pulled collars closer together. He translated this into his collection’s silhouette, which he described as, “volume on top, highwaisted, with a line drawn just under the bust by pants and long gloves.” The garments’ casual draping and layering enhanced by sportswear influences gave this collection an aura of totally effortless cool. Keeping true to the origins of his inspiration, all of the fabrics in the collection are partly coated with a rainproof film that both protects and adds gloss.’

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