LUTZ HUELLE No.23 ‘SOFT ARMOUR 2’ ‘A detail of light silk incrusted into the sleeve of a trench in heavy cotton to allow for movement from the Spring/Summer Collection became the starting point for Fall 2011. The idea of using featherlight silk together with heavy cashmeres and woolens, letting them react with (and against) each other. Coats, jackets and dresses are fluid and constructed at the same time. Jackets with the seam allowance at the shoulder left outside and cut into shape create an armour-like effect and elongate the silhouette. Taking the idea of ‘Soft Armour’ further, soft knits, pants and accessories are printed with a silver film to create the effect of wearing pieces of armour. The simplest look of a knitted dress, cardigan and scarf turns into Jeanne d’Arc from Mars.’ Photos by Sonny Vandevelde

Lutz’ Sketchbook for F/W 2011 on Filep Motwary’s UN NOUVEAU IDEAL. ‘Dear iDEALS, one of the designers I am mostly fond of is Paris-based Lutz Huelle, whom I interviewed sometime ago for Under/Current magazine as well as for Isterografo. At the time Lutz sent me some wonderful material, archival photographs and lots of other un-revealed content. I am posting some photos that never made it in either of the two publications in which our conversation was featured. Un nouVeau iDEAL reveals Lutz’s sketchbook for Fall/Winter 2011\12…’