When you decide to launch a Fashion House without a penny to your name 😊.. first you assemble all the courage you have and even the courage you never knew you had .. then you leave your flat and move in with your boyfriend, then use the money to rent a room somewhere behind the Gare du Nord which doubles as both office and to stock your stuff ( mainly books, magazines and vintage clothes)You spend a year working on a first collection, deciding that you will just follow your instincts and do what you like: Street- and Sportswear as Fashion, elevated by taking it out of context, re-inventing, re-making, re-assembling.You start working as a freelance designer in Italy, with the money you finance a first show at a friend’s studio space and hope that people will turn up … When they do you have a moment of sheer panic , then you scramble together a linesheet with prices, clean up the studio as best you can and start answering the phone.

Suzi Leenars photographed by Kira Bunse in Lutz Huelle S/S 2016 and Archive Collections for SSAW Magazine Spring/Summer 2016, styled by Anna Pesonen, Make-Up Karin Wersterlund, Hair by Pawel Solis

‘The Impact of flexibility by LUTZ Fall 2000: The tuxedo with the sport, the chic with the cheap, the workwear, the seasonless, the cut-out of fashion, the what you want when you want it, the sense of humour, the day and night pulled together’ Samuel Drira in ENCENS on LUTZ#1 Fall/Winter 2000

LUTZ HUELLE #1 ‘ THE DEBUT’ The Show, Photos: Wolfgang Tillmans

LUTZ HUELLE in VOGUE ITALIA Styled by Lori Goldstein, Photo: Steven Meisel

This was the first time the collection was featured in an Editorial – Lori Goldstein and Steven Meisel. To say … More

‘WHEN FASHION IS ABOUT CLOTHES’ Nakako Hayashi interviews Lutz for PURPLE FASHION S/S 2002 “2 years after working with Martin Margiela, German-born Fashion Designer Lutz Huelle has stuck out on his own to make a clothes statement more than a fashion statement, and is becoming one of the most interesting new Designers today.. Lutz takes an artist’s approach, creating and developing clothes that are his own, based more predominantly on the language of clothes and their construction rather than on fashion’s image, style, and appearance..”

‘THE DEBUT’ Photos by Wolfgang Tillmans

‘THE DEBUT’ Images from the 1st Show, in Fabrice Hybert’s Studio in Paris, February 2000: High Waists, Tights knitted with industrial Lycra worn with heavy draped Sweater and Overskirt, Pockets cut in the shape of gloves peak out from under a jacket.

‘Relecture toute personelle des archétypes de la garderobe la plus classique, totalement reconstruite, fendue, dézippé, sanglé,boutonnée, la prémière collection de ce créateur allemand a retenu l’attention par son originalité. Invention discrète d’une silhouette délibérément à l’écart d’un néoglamour ostentatoire’ Cédric Saint André Perrin on Lutz Huelle’s F/W 2000 Collection, LIBERATION

 

Purple Fashion (48) LUTZ No.1 by Giasco Bertoli ‘Lutz’s first collection outlines a new Amazonian silhouette using layers of fabrics,stretch, gathered and bunched wools, mixesof softand hard lines,neutrals and soft primary colours, exaggerated and tight fits, high waists and long sleeves, dress-shaped safari jackets and lab coats.’