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Suzy Menkes on Lutz Huelle in INTERNATIONAL HERALD TRIBUNE

lutzhuelleMarch 1, 2004November 4, 2014F/W 2004 'Bomber Baroque'

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Previous LUTZ HUELLE No.9 F/W 2004 ‘BOMBER BAROQUE’ Mixing Lace and Embroidery, thick Woolens and Nylons, thinly pleated victorian ruffles and zips that open either onto the skin or another layer of fabric, turning simple dresses into draped evening wear. Hand-dyed salt-and-pepper yarns turn into bright coloured sweaters-scarves. The Bomber is everywhere, elongated with silky crepe to turn into a coat or used as a shape on Trench- and Dufflecoats. The lower part on a fitted blazer is replaced with smocked denim, turning it into a ‘new Bomber’ making the collection go full circle.

Next LUTZ HUELLE NO.8 S/S 2004 ‘SPIRALING’ Still one of my favourite collections, this was based on twisting, knotting, spiraling fabric around the body. Inside and outside are worn visible at the same time, opening and showing parts of the body. This then made me think of other ways to ‘be naked while dressed’ : Replacing the shoulderline of Jackets with transparent straps, or cutting the shape of a tank top into a shirt. Huge oversized pants doubled as evening dresses. Trenchcoats and Shirts were remodeled as Bustiertops. This show earned us the famous page in ‘Libération’ the next day, with the Headline ‘LES BIMBOS AU PLACARD! (‘Bimbos are over!’).

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