Thursday September 27th, 2012
Les Beaux-Arts de Paris, Salle Mélpomène
Huelle’s line was launched in 2000 simply as “Lutz”, with a design aesthetic often described as ‘decontextualisation’, “cut & paste” and “bricolage”. Mixing things up and taking them a step further, out of the normal and expected context, today the “Lutz Huelle” line has sales points throughout the world, some key cities being Paris, Berlin, New York, Hong Kong, Seoul and Tokyo.
Inspirations from everyday life are constant, and this season Huelle is influenced by the simplicity of subtle yet graceful movements and gestures. He injects the everyday wardrobe staple with elements of couture for wonderfully surprising finishing touches and ending results. A simple baseball jacket is made more special by lengthening it with silk organza, and the standard parka is made into a luxury item by using a fluid crocodile print silk georgette.
Continuing forward with his innovatively draped creations from last season, his collection displayed a bigger selection of these lovely wrapped items to all our delights. In a monotone color palette of cream, white and black, with small pops of jewel tone colors in purple, green, and yellow these were beautiful representations of his new and less rigid aesthetic. There were sophisticated material combinations in the solid and sheer wrap around coats, and elegant details in the monochromatic faceted stone screenprints on black silk satins or silk chiffons. All were nicely finished off with ultra chic and modern footwear.
The overall presentation was clean, sharp and coherent. There were no random or unexpected surprises other than the music which was a mix of classical, both ethereal and intensely dramatic at times, with a small injection of Bruce Springsteen’s “I’m on Fire”, and a finale of Billy Idol’s “White Wedding”. Huelle’s clothing is serious yes, and does evoke a strong modern woman, but it is also fun, playful, and to be enjoyed.
– Elise Goldberg Santiago