To hear Lutz Huelle speak about his clothes is to be on the receiving end of all sorts of mini revelations. To wit: “I like that something appears sexy because the person inside it decides it is going to be sexy.” The supporting evidence: a trench coat or gray jersey tunic that could be unzipped from the shoulder down the arm. Or else he’ll consider how a garment might exist in a fixed seductive state of sliding off the body; this he did by suspending the core of black parka from diamanté straps, flipping its raison d’être from outerwear to evening attire. Huelle operates from the premise that his designs need to end up being worn; otherwise, as he puts it, “What’s the point?” But his application of elasticized seaming to alter volumes, or the flapper fringing spilling forth from a boxy blazer also backed up his belief in “eccentric simplicity.”
There were other indications throughout the Spring collection that this under-the-radar Paris-based designer studies construction without overthinking it. A dress pleated from neckline to hemline was bookended with circular denim sleeves; the result was slouchy yet flattering. If the pliant mesh—akin to citrus-fruit netting—seemed less essential than other pieces, it also layered the looks with unexpected edge. Speaking of unexpected, Huelle arrived at his final looks by accident upon realizing that the sheer perimeter of an embroidered sample made for a dynamic overleaf. He loved the idea so much that he tacked an oversize square of black silk onto the front of a white T-shirt dress. How easy, how right.