Elsa Schiaparelli et Salvador Dalí, Rei Kawakubo et Cindy Sherman, ou plus récemment Raf Simons et Sterling Ruby ainsi que Kim Jones et Daniel Arsham… Les relations – voire amitiés au long cours – entre créateurs de mode et artistes ne sont pas nouvelles. Mais si leur résultat s’est souvent traduit par la simple intégration d’œuvres d’art sur les défilés ou sur les vêtements eux-mêmes, il reste  rare que des pièces de mode s’invitent dans les expositions d’art contemporain. Comme si l’espace du white cube restait hermétique au travail des designers, assigné aux musées dédiés à la mode et aux arts décoratifs. Si quelques personnalités déjà ont tenté de briser ce plafond de verre, à l’instar du créateur et artiste Martin Margiela ou de la créatrice iconoclaste Vava Dudu, la Fondation Pernod Ricard a décidé de leur emboîter le pas. Jusqu’au 28 janvier 2023, l’institution parisienne réunit dans une exposition le travail de trois amis : la plasticienne Alexandra Bircken, le créateur de mode Lutz Huelle et le photographe Wolfgang Tillmans, qui y fait une discrète mais pertinente contribution. Car au-delà de leurs différences de profession et de médiums, ces trois Allemands quinquagénaires partagent depuis leur rencontre dans les années 70 de grandes affinités et aspirations.” Matthieu Jacquet in conversation with Alexandra Bircken and Lutz Huelle on NUMERO.COM

to read the whole article by Matthieu Jacquet on La Pensée Corps please click on NUMERO.COM Une exposition qui retrace l’histoire … More

Alexandra Bircken et Lutz Huelle œuvrent respectivement depuis l’art et la mode. Une exposition les réunit, ainsi qu’un troisième comparse, le photographe Wolfgang Tillmans, à partir d’une histoire d’amitié adolescente. Et une commune énergie, comme un geste d’exposition, d’en découdre avec les assignations de genre et les séparations de médiums.

Text by Ingrid Luquet-Gad on Les Inrocks On les connaît respectivement comme plasticienne et créateur de mode. Alexandra Bircken et … More

The exhibition La pensée corps brings together the work of Alexandra Bircken and Lutz Huelle, both of whom are linked to questions of identity, intimacy, permeability and vulnerability of the human being. What links them is a style with forms that are alternately fractured and assembled, cut and sutured, and a long history of friendship.

This exhibition is not about the relationship between art and fashion, even though it is a natural one. The focus is … More

“Working on a project with a close friend is usually the kind of thing you dream up over drinks and hardly ever get to put into reality. Not so for Berlin-based Alexandra Bircken — a former designer and present-day artist creating “non-functional objects” — and Paris-based Lutz Huelle, who launched his eponymous label in 2000 after working for Martin Margiela for three years. Friends since they were teens, the two were shaped by the same music, by the magnitude of the Berlin Wall coming down, and by the desire to move to London to study fashion. Alexandra has modelled for Lutz since she was a student, and been in his official défilés too. Their friendship is rounded out by Wolfgang Tillmans, with whom they form a sort of loose creative throuple.” Sarah Moroz in conversation with Alexandra Bircken and Lutz Huelle for iD Magazine

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“Lutz Huelle nailed his one-off collection for AZ Factory as its latest guest “amigo,” perfectly capturing the offhand couture look pioneered by its late founder Alber Elbaz. Huelle, who has been showing his signature brand in Paris since 2000, brought a wealth of experience and skill to the project, seen in the smooth cut of blurred floral raincoats and dusters, the ultra-cool, dressy-looking jeans, and the sharp tuxedo tailoring that opened the display. He has a knack for giving approachable clothes and accessories visual oomph: Denim shirts and jackets came zhuzhed up with panels of sequins; T-shirts and jeans were fronted with big crystals, and shirts were cut large to catch the wind in the back, like parachutes.” Miles Socha on AZ Factory with Lutz Huelle on WWD

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“I think we are all looking for something that’s simple and is touching and emotional without trying so hard, muses Huelle. His hybrids, like Elbaz’s exposed zippers and seams, speak to the joy of making and improvising, and in so doing seem to acknowledge that life, and creation, can be glorious in their messiness. “In the end, it’s just about the clothes, and I think that was always also Alber’s way of seeing things,” the designer notes. Of course these clothes play out in the theater of life as well as the theatre de la mode. Huelle’s focus on clothes is based on a belief in his chosen field. The “incredible thing about fashion,” he enthuses, is “it’s so multifaceted and so complicated and so extreme in many ways because it’s literally about everything. It’s about our lives.” Lutz talks to Laird Borrelli-Persson about AZ Factory on VOGUE RUNWAY

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