to read the whole article by Matthieu Jacquet on La Pensée Corps please click on NUMERO.COM Une exposition qui retrace l’histoire … More
Tag: Lutz Huelle
Alexandra Bircken et Lutz Huelle œuvrent respectivement depuis l’art et la mode. Une exposition les réunit, ainsi qu’un troisième comparse, le photographe Wolfgang Tillmans, à partir d’une histoire d’amitié adolescente. Et une commune énergie, comme un geste d’exposition, d’en découdre avec les assignations de genre et les séparations de médiums.
Text by Ingrid Luquet-Gad on Les Inrocks On les connaît respectivement comme plasticienne et créateur de mode. Alexandra Bircken et … More
The exhibition La pensée corps brings together the work of Alexandra Bircken and Lutz Huelle, both of whom are linked to questions of identity, intimacy, permeability and vulnerability of the human being. What links them is a style with forms that are alternately fractured and assembled, cut and sutured, and a long history of friendship.
This exhibition is not about the relationship between art and fashion, even though it is a natural one. The focus is … More
“Working on a project with a close friend is usually the kind of thing you dream up over drinks and hardly ever get to put into reality. Not so for Berlin-based Alexandra Bircken — a former designer and present-day artist creating “non-functional objects” — and Paris-based Lutz Huelle, who launched his eponymous label in 2000 after working for Martin Margiela for three years. Friends since they were teens, the two were shaped by the same music, by the magnitude of the Berlin Wall coming down, and by the desire to move to London to study fashion. Alexandra has modelled for Lutz since she was a student, and been in his official défilés too. Their friendship is rounded out by Wolfgang Tillmans, with whom they form a sort of loose creative throuple.” Sarah Moroz in conversation with Alexandra Bircken and Lutz Huelle for iD Magazine
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“Lutz Huelle nailed his one-off collection for AZ Factory as its latest guest “amigo,” perfectly capturing the offhand couture look pioneered by its late founder Alber Elbaz. Huelle, who has been showing his signature brand in Paris since 2000, brought a wealth of experience and skill to the project, seen in the smooth cut of blurred floral raincoats and dusters, the ultra-cool, dressy-looking jeans, and the sharp tuxedo tailoring that opened the display. He has a knack for giving approachable clothes and accessories visual oomph: Denim shirts and jackets came zhuzhed up with panels of sequins; T-shirts and jeans were fronted with big crystals, and shirts were cut large to catch the wind in the back, like parachutes.” Miles Socha on AZ Factory with Lutz Huelle on WWD
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“Other independent designers are struggling in this difficult economy, but Huelle reports his business has been heating up. That’s another reason to pay attention to him. As viral fashion comes into question and runway stunts start to feel passé, he’s a founding member of the slow-burn school of fashion.” Nicole Phelps on Lutz Huelle F/W 2023 on VOGUE RUNWAY
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“I think we are all looking for something that’s simple and is touching and emotional without trying so hard, muses Huelle. His hybrids, like Elbaz’s exposed zippers and seams, speak to the joy of making and improvising, and in so doing seem to acknowledge that life, and creation, can be glorious in their messiness. “In the end, it’s just about the clothes, and I think that was always also Alber’s way of seeing things,” the designer notes. Of course these clothes play out in the theater of life as well as the theatre de la mode. Huelle’s focus on clothes is based on a belief in his chosen field. The “incredible thing about fashion,” he enthuses, is “it’s so multifaceted and so complicated and so extreme in many ways because it’s literally about everything. It’s about our lives.” Lutz talks to Laird Borrelli-Persson about AZ Factory on VOGUE RUNWAY
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“..the sheer joy and the sparkle of AZ Factory, where resident designer Lutz Huelle gave the familiar Alber Elbaz tropes an urban, fresh spin.” Angelo Flaccavento on AZ Factory with Lutz Huelle on BoF
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“It’s very much what I like,” said Huelle, who is a designer-wardrobe builder, not a trend chaser. “But it’s also more glamorous and a little more sexy.” Nicole Phelps on AZ Factory with Lutz Huelle on VOGUE RUNWAY
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Alex and Lutz talk about growing up, shared experiences, their work, and everything else in SSAW Magazine .
Portrait photo by Wolfgang Tillmans Thank you to Tuomas Laitinen and Chris Vidal Tenomaa