Photo by Sonny Vandevelde
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Each season I praise Lutz Huelle for his craft and designs and how good he is; well this season he took things a step further without losing any of his signatures.
There was a rigour and sharpness to this collection, as thought his eye and cutting shears had been newly sharpened. From the swinging silhouetted black dress at the beginning of the show, shown with blue glitter boots, right the way through to the end, he never put a foot wrong.
The bright pink satin top with huge rounded sleeves like two huge blossoms, shown over a knit top just peeping out and a slender black skirt, and the hooded coat which flounced out at the back with summery pale blue brocade hooded top and narrow blush silk taffeta pants was stunning.
In the month where the ever stylish Marella Agnelli died, the draped jersey top worn with bright cyclamen pants had a Dolce Vita vibe, which she would have surely loved.
This same cyclamen silk taffeta was used for Balenciaga perfect bubble of a coat whose soft curves and architectural form demonstrated Lutz and his skills perfectly; the soft volume and folds again remind one of petals and flowers. The orange slipper satin dress with tiered fullness would be an attention grabber at any event, as would the draped white dress with a pure classicism in ever line.
A soft tunic length semi sheer sweater was worn with the summery blue brocade, this time in a softly swirling skirt suspended from a deep basque before the fullness appeared. The short cocktail look in black and deep blue brocade had again a perfect proportion; from the neat hooded neckline, through the long straight lines until it burst into a flounce stopping just around the knee.
However for me one item summed up why this designer and his work, remains for me so good; a simple coat-dress over pants. The coat-dress itself was in ecru, cut to flare right out from a low seam at the back, it had short sleeves and two huge pockets which the model had her hands plunged in; worn over slender silvery white silk taffeta pants and matching court shoes it has so much modern elegance.
It reminded me of the gardening smocks, Balenciaga created for his amazing client Mrs Bunny Mellon. I can think of no higher praise or association.