LUTZ HUELLE No.2 S/S 2001 ‘The Boxeuse’ Inspired by Boxing, and the slouchy attitude of clothes that are too long, too short, very low on the hips ,or very high up the waist. Jackets and Trenchcoats were gliding down the body, opening up shoulders and Decolletes; Pants and Skirts were riding up the body, elongating the shilhouette. Towels were worn with gold Cardigans as evening dresses, and the only Tailleur was in Sweatshirt, with Lurex Finishings.

‘Relecture toute personelle des archétypes de la garderobe la plus classique, totalement reconstruite, fendue, dézippé, sanglé,boutonnée, la prémière collection de ce créateur allemand a retenu l’attention par son originalité. Invention discrète d’une silhouette délibérément à l’écart d’un néoglamour ostentatoire’ Cédric Saint André Perrin on Lutz Huelle’s F/W 2000 Collection, LIBERATION

 

No.1 ‘THE DEBUT’ Fittings for the first Show. Like a puzzle, I kept trying out different combinations to see what looked best. This would go on to inform all of my later work- the tweaking of the silhouette, pulling garments up and down the body to emphasize different parts, the mix of strong, elementary colours with neutrals, the draping of simple, everyday garments ( as opposed to elaborate eveningwear), the mix-and-match of knit and fabric, the surrealism and fetishism, the sporty influences, my obsession with the Trenchcoat and the Bomber, and the layering of different types and genres.

Here’s my Central St.Martin’s Bachelor Collection, photographed by Anders Edström for the first ever issue of PURPLE FASHION Magazine. These photos were taken in the two months following my degree at Central St. Martin’s in London and starting work at Martin Margiela in Paris. I had been offered the job before finishing college ( I’d done several internships at Margiela during my time at CSM) and I had no plans to start my own collection, nevertheless I was really pleased to be part of this project. This is the collection I went back to when I started thinking about founding our own house with David almost 4 years later, and my first collection in 2000 was more or less a re-edition of my St.Martin’s Degree work. I have the most brilliant memories of Central St Martin’s, it was such a fabulous place to be , and London was on FIRE ! It really had such a profound impact on my life, in many ways everything that had happened before had just felt like a preclude. I was incredibly sad to leave London but also hugely excited to be starting work at Martin Margiela. Paris did feel small and narrow after the incredible energy of London and it took me a while to get used to it, falling in love certainly helped 🤗