LUTZ HUELLE F/W 2016 ‘Adding volume to the body without oversizing it. Tripling the front panels of a tailored coat in camel and a red sleeveless trench in wool, causing its volume to overspill. Denim jackets go from simple breasted to “triple breasted”, by adding length they become asymmetrical, sweeping coats. The same was done to my beloved bombers: adding contrasting panels and finishings in double wool, they turn into a new sort of trench coat, combining the strength and attitude of the former with the sophistication of the latter. Denim is also combined with fluid crepe or gold sequins for dresses that go from early morning listening to late night dancing in the flicker of an eye. The same sequins, worn as oversized earrings add sparkle to even the simplest of looks. Pleated dresses are finished with jersey, adding the ease of sportswear to evening. Finally, a group of zipped overskirts in light wool, pinstripe and denim act as oversized belts, cinching volume at the waist of dresses and shirts. The same skirts, cut in transparent plastic, protect dresses or pants in an eventual burst of rain, a sort of “dress-umbrella”. To cut a long story short – this collection became about everything I have always loved, a sort of concentrate of my favourite obsessions.’

LUTZ HUELLE F/W 2015 Life in ‘The Snake’ “Visiting Francois Roche’s futuristic all-white Paris apartment ‘The Snake’ I started wondering what it would feel like to live in a place where every little detail was designed in the most perfect and beautiful way, and where even getting up in the morning and shuffling into the kitchen for coffee with the blanket thrown over the shoulders would turn into a tableau.” Lengths and squares of fabric (the simplest of shapes) became constructed capes and coats. Shirts were turned into graphic dresses by adding different textures and accessories. Thick black-and-white Aran knits are worked to resemble lace, and straight pleats are mixed with a high-performance wool to create pleated dresses that might be worn like sweatshirts. Finally, a navy blue double wool was combined with silver shearling for a series of pea-coats that are classic and futuristic at the same time.

LUTZ HUELLE No.25 F/W 2012 ‘THE RAIN’ Inspired by watching people covering themselves in a sudden burst of rain – pulling the collar of a jacket closer together, or even up over the head or draping a scarf or sweater over the shoulders, this collection became all about the silhouette : Volume on top, highwaisted, with a line drawn just under the bust by pants and long gloves. It also became very much about everything I have always loved : The draping of everyday garments (in this case a biker jacket that is elongated and oversized in the front, or has it’s sleeves shortened to be worn with zipped gloves, and a tailored overcoat that has its’ volume in the front tripled) Then there are the sportswear influences : elastic cutouts in pleated dresses – turning the pleats into a graphic motif – and in tailored pants. In the knitwear, Alpaca worked with Lycra in a jaquard turns cardigans into featherlight, highly extensible Overcoats. The superhighwaisted pants from my Debut is back, this time tapered at the leg and finished with a large elastic hem. Capes are zipped open and worn as shortsleeved coats, widening the shoulder. Fabrics are partly coated with a rainproof film to protect and add shine to matt surfaces. Finally, Ankleboots are made of smocked leather.