LUTZ HUELLE S/S 2017 ‘How to define a shoulder without using pads or padding, a sort of natural sharpness that almost happens by chance ? I widened the shoulderline of a trench and shirt to a point where I could then just refold it onto itself, creating a small angular shoulder and adding volume to the body at the same time. Cut into denim jackets using even more volume in denim or contrasting orange cotton crepe creates the illusion of an even bigger shoulderline while keeping the real shoulder tiny underneath. Thinking more about paradoxes I was wondering how to treat camouflage in the exact opposite way of what it is supposed to do (make you disappear). The answer was to simply line it with the hottest of hot pinks, thereby rendering it useless for anything else but looking hot. V necks are cut into military parkas and denim jackets, elongated with either fluid crepe or heavy lace they turn into summer dresses. A few ideas from past seasons resurface – the spiral skirts from 2004 become spiral dresses, curving around the body, and a cardigan cape from 2012 becomes a tailored jacket, Its constructed front turning into fluid cape in the back. Finally boots and pumps produced in collaboration with Robert Clergerie are cut in the same fabrics as the pants of the Collection. Elongating the silhouette, they effectively eliminate the ever complicated question of which shoes to wear with which outfit.’


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