Author: lutzhuelle

LUTZ HUELLE No.24 S/S2012 ‘WATCHING PAINT DRY’ Passing a building site on my way to work during the summer and watching its’ progress made me think about architecture and construction. Cutting into the constructed shapes of Coats and Jackets like cutting into a wall: taking away most of the sleeve to leave a straight line just under the collarbone, or following the round shape of the upper arm to end up with just a smidgen of sleeve covering the shoulder. Lines and holes are also cut into dresses to reveal the body in unexpected ways. Straight knife pleats are pushed off center to force them into disarray. Silk Dresses in Hot Pink and Blue are worn over neutral colours to resemble flowing paint. Graphic prints on Cotton and Jersey are inspired by dripping paint- watching it make shapes out of masses of colour, turning into ‘organic stripes’. White Denim is printed with watercolour and worn with giant sequins.

LUTZ HUELLE No.23 ‘SOFT ARMOUR 2’ ‘A detail of light silk incrusted into the sleeve of a trench in heavy cotton to allow for movement from the Spring/Summer Collection became the starting point for Fall 2011. The idea of using featherlight silk together with heavy cashmeres and woolens, letting them react with (and against) each other. Coats, jackets and dresses are fluid and constructed at the same time. Jackets with the seam allowance at the shoulder left outside and cut into shape create an armour-like effect and elongate the silhouette. Taking the idea of ‘Soft Armour’ further, soft knits, pants and accessories are printed with a silver film to create the effect of wearing pieces of armour. The simplest look of a knitted dress, cardigan and scarf turns into Jeanne d’Arc from Mars.’ Photos by Sonny Vandevelde