Tag: PFW

“Huelle, a German who lives in Paris, is one of the most interesting indie designers in fashion, famous in a strange way for having his best ideas copied by many lesser talents. With this collection, it was about him respecting, and yet extending, the DNA of a house founded by the late great Alber Elbaz, a creator of clear and powerful codes.Thankfully, the result was a balanced cocktail of Huelle’s street style, delicacy with denim and sense of rock n roll, married to the hipster grand couture of Elbaz, blended with the one virtual show Alber created for AZ Factory.” Godfrey Deeny on AZ Factory with Lutz Huelle on FASHION NETWORK

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Titled “Le Pyjama Rose” Lutz Huelle’s spring presentation film showed his pieces on women of various body types, styles and ages. The designs grew out of an extended period of inactivity, he explained, in a FaceTime call. “It almost seemed obscene thinking about fashion with people being in so much pain — it took me a month of thinking,” said Huelle, recalling his struggle to find purpose in work at the beginning of the lockdown period. “And then I realized, I have to start where I am and the first thing I looked at was the pyjama,” he said, popping out of his seat to grab his latest creation. Wow! The screen went pink — hot pink. Here was the star of the lineup, a pair of pyjamas made of a silky viscose — “you can put it in the machine, you can use it forever.”He wanted the ensemble to make people feel good lounging about the house, but also be able to wear it outside, even to go dancing, when such activities resume.” Mimosa Spencer on Lutz Huelle Spring Summer 21 on WWD.

Along a similar vein, Huelle constructed a pouffy-sleeved housecoat, made of taffeta, and he demonstrated how the scrunched sleeves could … More

LUTZ HUELLE ‘LE PYJAMA ROSE’ Spring/Summer 2021 “Having spent more time in bed in the last 6 months than ever before in my life made me think about clothes to wear in bed or at home lounging on a sofa doing very little. I realised that a pair of pyjamas is really just a -very comfortable- 2 piece suit, which made me think about home-wear in general, and how to transport the idea of the coziness and security of home into the outside world. The pyjamas became a suit of pants and roomy shirt, made in the same washed pink satin it is both perfect to sleep in and go out dancing as soon as the occasion arises again.”

A bathrobe with hydrangea-shaped sleeves is cut in a featherlight taffetas and can be worn either at home with very … More

‘…He turned his focus on transparency, using an ultralight black mesh, often with polkadots, layering it over short, puffy sleeves, making them larger, or longer, and in one case, adding a chic touch to a light blue cotton shirtdress. Other times the layering felt a bit haphazard — those polka-dotted legs shooting out from under a thick trenchcoat were surprising in a slightly jarring sense —  likely his intention.  Known for his obsession with bombers and jean jackets — which he remakes entirely — for spring, he crafted an attractive and rather dressy version, cutting out the neck of a white jean jacket and replacing it with a sheen of the black see-through mesh, gently gathered and trimmed with a line of tight ruffles.’ Mimosa Spencer on Lutz Huelle SS20 on WWD

French and flirty, in the designer’s description, the collection proved he is not neglecting his namesake label Lest anyone worry … More