“On my last day I saw two wonderful shows, Lutz Huelle and Sacai. Huelle, who worked closely with Martin Margiela, has been quietly designing truly excellent fashion for years without much recognition from the fashion system. His experience shows in expertly combined garments that are chic, fashion-forward, and eminently wearable all at once. This collection was everything I miss about the ‘90s but updated for today; nonchalance, sophisticated sexiness, confidence, and — gasp — fun! Fun is the word fashion has forgotten. Fashion was fun in the ‘80s and the ‘90s. Now it is serious business in which everything is airtight to the point of suffocation. Huelle’s show, where the soundtrack went from Patti Smith to Italo disco, was a reminder that it doesn’t have to be this way.” Eugene Rabkin on LUTZ HUELLE SS24 on STYLE ZEITGEIST