‘It’s a clever thing Huelle is doing here. Glamour is the backdrop and buzzword of this new fashion moment. But the truth is that most of us have grown very comfortable in our stretchy yoga clothes. Merging the two attitudes has the potential to turn on a lot of women.’ Nicole Phelps on Lutz Huelle FW19 on VOGUE RUNWAY

for Photos and the whole article please click here Lutz Huelle was appointed creative director of Delpozo, the Madrid-based demi-couture … More

Lutz Huelle F/W 2019 ‘The Voyageuse’ Travelling like never before in my life got me thinking about ease and movement, even in pieces that we are not supposed to travel in. I have always loved the idea of wearing dramatic pieces to do boring things- going to the supermarket in a pink bubblecoat might make the experience so much more enjoyable, also, you never know who you might run into. Roomy capes in double wool or fluid wool crepe are like blankets that fall over the shoulders. Another cape in beige cotton gabardine or rainproof nylon is worn as a sleeveless raincoat, with a hoodie underneath cut in lurex jacquard to cover the arms. A pink ‘Lantern-Sleeve’ jacket is worn with a soft mohair jumper and permanently creased skirt that even after hours of sitting on a plane will look perfect- it cannot be creased anymore than it already is. A biker jacket and wool coat have oversized, draped hoods or collars to huddle in while sitting in drafty airport lobbys. Cotton shirts have folded, plunging necklines, with added waterfall diamanté necklaces and earrings they turn into an evening dress the time it takes to rush from a cab into the ballroom. A bubble raincoat in black nylon is both protective and comforting, cut in pink taffetas it tuns into a dramatic operacoat. Finally, long skirts in silver jacquard are paired with mohair sweaters and jewellery: perfect for both lounging on the sofa and hitting the town. Photos Show by Gio Staiano Header Photo by Kira Bunse

“…this whole notion of old and new is completely gone, in a way, because a beautiful garment is a beautiful garment…there’s no rule about how people dress these days,” the designer observed backstage before the show. Taking full advantage of this welcome state of affairs, he offered a lineup of deconstructed jean jackets, bombers with ruffles or drawn tight to the waist with a Fifties New Look flair, and, what he claimed to be his first jacquard cocktail dress. This, he tucked under a trenchcoat and, in a pin-striped version, layered on top of matching trousers. (..) The alligator print was very chic. So were the polka dots (..) applied to a dress paired with matching boots. The added measure of elegance overall contributed to the strength of this forward-looking collection.” Mimosa Spencer on LUTZ HUELLE SS19 on WWD

to read the whole review and see the Collection on WWD click here

LUTZ HUELLE S/S 2018 “I was thinking about how there is no more generational gap in how we dress – Mothers dressing like their daughters, daughters raiding the closets of their mothers (or their fathers !), and how even the idea of “old” or “new” seems old today. So, this collection became about a certain classicism or even elegance put into the context of how we dress today. A Trenchcoat in pure cotton has its sleeves cut into an exaggerated Bell shape to add a sense of drama to a simple wardrobe staple. A Jacquard cocktail Dress (a first for me !) is worn under a men’s Trench or cut in Pinstripe wool over matching pants. Coats with oversized sleeves and tiny shoulders cut in classic motifs of roses, dots, or animalier are worn over sweatshirts or oversized men’s shirts. Denim Jackets and Bombers have swathes of Jacquard ruffles attached to the front or are cut into tiny waisted Jackets. Worn with fluid skirts they transform the classic silhouette of fitted jacket and skirt. Finally, a men’s shirt and classic dotted blouse have their front panels twisted to reveal the body underneath in an unexpected way.”

“For the designer Lutz Huelle, combining fabrics or garments has become a signature, and a way of expressing difference. “We are not as simple as fashion wants us to be,” he says. “We are more complex. It makes you question.” Huelle founded his own label in 2000, after working closely with Martin Margiela, and his AW18 show had blue denim jackets sliced on the horizontal and matched with black brocade, and wool coats with vertical panels of metallic quilted lining. “It demands the person wearing it to be really open,” says Huelle. “When I first started doing it, it was difficult for people to understand. If you’re wearing these things, it’s about you.” He means the attention that will be received, the way the garment attracts curiosity. Like: “Why are you wearing two pairs of trousers?” Huelle says he also likes how these garments confuse signals. “People judge so quickly. They look at someone and what they’re wearing and think, ‘That’s who they are.’ But if they are wearing something that contrasts, you look at them and think, ‘I want to know this person.’ ” Maybe half-half garments expose the untruth we believe about our bodies — that they are symmetrical. Look in a mirror right now: one eye is higher than the other, shoulders slope differently, hips make us take an angled stance. Human bodies don’t all perfectly line up, why should clothes? ” Charlie Porter writes about “Hybrid” Clothes in the FINANCIAL TIMES

to read the whole article please click here

“…What’s also happening now is that designers make clothes for people as opposed to making them for a fashion show, which has always been my main preoccupation anyway. Obviously, as these clothes are much closer to reality, it also changes the general aesthetic of fashion. I have never understood the idea of creating clothes for a fashion show and then selling something different afterwards. Saint Laurent and Chanel were such important designers because they dressed people above anything else, and that is what is happening again now.” Read Lutz Huelle in conversation with Pedro Canicoba in MANY OF THEM Magazine