for the whole review and photos please click here Lutz Huelle Vogue Runway
‘Lutz Huelle had an emotional time looking around the Martin Margiela retrospective which opened at the Musée Galliera the other day. It reminded him most strongly of how his onetime boss “saw beauty in everything. Nothing was insignificant or without the potential for beauty, even a stupid plastic bag.” Huelle’s work doesn’t appear to be visibly influenced by Margiela, but he does seem on a mission to make ordinary life a little more enjoyable. In this collection, he interrupted some banal, generic clothes by inserting patches of rich brocade or traditional wool into them, thus knocking their volumes off center. Regular parkas and a jean jacket became wrap-over shapes. The internal padded quilting of coat liners came to the surface and was fused with knitwear or a denim shirt.
Plenty of designers these days have turned to patch-working garments together; what makes Lutz stand apart is that the results are not just for the look—they’re resolved into wearable garments with a French nonchalance about them. With his offering of gilded brocade narrow pants, you could imagine these clothes being the kind of thing you see young Parisian girls wearing in cafés and bars. As we know: They never overdress, but they always wear the right thing.’