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Lutz Huelle – Master Of His Trade – RTW SS19
LUTZ HUELLE READY TO WEAR SPRING 2019 COLLECTION – RTW SS19
At a time when many collections are simply “clothes”, designers like Lutz stand out for their mastery of the skills inherent in truly being a fashion designer.
by Tony Glenville
The ability to construct a silhouette through the knowledge of pattern cutting, drape, toile, and fittings, the use of the correct and appropriate fabric to realise the garment, and finally the sense of proportion and adjustment required to make the entire final image work, are all skills embedded deep in his work.
Lutz also understands we look at his work for it to evolve, develop and subtly shift; not some seismic seasonal change just because everyone is chasing after the latest trend.
The brilliant sleeve construction he has developed was there in varying lengths from short to long, the military green nylon bomber variations wove their way through the collection; twice slender and fitted, once incorporating a soft floating mesh.
Denim, again in slender spring/summer shapes also appeared, my favourite being a cropped proportion in softly washed denim teamed with filigree black lace and a softly flippy skirt in a monochrome photo print, plus print shoes to match.
This season perhaps the stars of the collection were the little black pieces; a lyrical trapeze dress, a jacket sliced into from the back with rose pattern, and many other black pieces; all perhaps in homage to the great designers of the past, from Chanel through Balenciaga, who regarded black as showing their mastery of the skills of fashion designing at its best.