‘It’s a clever thing Huelle is doing here. Glamour is the backdrop and buzzword of this new fashion moment. But the truth is that most of us have grown very comfortable in our stretchy yoga clothes. Merging the two attitudes has the potential to turn on a lot of women.’ Nicole Phelps on Lutz Huelle FW19 on VOGUE RUNWAY

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Lutz Huelle was appointed creative director of Delpozo, the Madrid-based demi-couture house, in December. It has meant more plane travel than usual for Huelle, and he said it had him thinking about the clothes we wear in airports. If that’s giving you visions of tracksuits and flip-flops, think again. The designer believes in dressing up for the most mundane of occasions—not only for TSA precheck. How to make the everyday elegant and vice versa—“using clothes to please yourself,” is how he describes it—has become the ongoing project for this former right hand of Martin Margiela. Huelle has done it in captivating ways of late, splicing lace insets into jean jackets and silk florals into army surplus.

The difference this season is that his atelier experience at Delpozo is elevating the goings-on here. There was no denim, to start with. Backstage, he pointed out a hoodie . . . in silver and turquoise silk jacquard. “People won’t stop wearing the damn things, so I thought I’d do it my way,” he said. He used the same metallic jacquard for his first-ever long skirts, cut straight, then blossoming out south of the knees. Pants were cut in couture-ish fabrics, but with the easy, gathered waistbands of sweats—glamleisure. Huelle’s jacket of the season is a bomber-cape hybrid, “basically a blanket,” but chic, especially in the navy and red combination accompanied by red satin boots.

 

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