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.. There were long tables at Lutz Huelle, but nobody was walking on them. The setting for Huelle’s delightful show, his 50th in a career that spans about 25 years— a milestone nowadays for an independent designer — was one of the city’s elegant libraries. Before they came out, models were dressing between shelves of books. Huelle’s collection sprang from seeing a couple turned out in a suit and a flowing evening dress. It made him wonder, as he put it, “about the space between” these two sartorial archetypes.
Lutz Huelle Photo: Courtesy of Lutz Huelle
That led him to reimagine the elements of each style. A man’s suit jacket became a two-piece look for a woman. Cotton dress shirts acquired panels of lace. The pleats of a tuxedo shirt inspired horizontal folds across the top of a snug denim jacket. And tailored shorts in wool or frayed denim were stitched to a black viscose base, so a person could wear them low on the waist and show off what looks ambiguously like black underwear (Hermès did something similar). Huelle’s work is interesting because it remains alive to chance and is unspoiled, and it’s also out of step with mass luxury.
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