Beatrice Dalle in Lutz’ Shortsleeved Trench S/S 2005, PURPLE FASHION, Styled by Sheila Single

LUTZ HUELLE NO.8 S/S 2004 ‘SPIRALING’ Still one of my favourite collections, this was based on twisting, knotting, spiraling fabric around the body. Inside and outside are worn visible at the same time, opening and showing parts of the body. This then made me think of other ways to ‘be naked while dressed’ : Replacing the shoulderline of Jackets with transparent straps, or cutting the shape of a tank top into a shirt. Huge oversized pants doubled as evening dresses. Trenchcoats and Shirts were remodeled as Bustiertops. This show earned us the famous page in ‘Libération’ the next day, with the Headline ‘LES BIMBOS AU PLACARD! (‘Bimbos are over!’).

Suzy Menkes on Lutz Huelle in INTERNATIONAL HERALD TRIBUNE

LUTZ HUELLE No.9 F/W 2004 ‘BOMBER BAROQUE’ Mixing Lace and Embroidery, thick Woolens and Nylons, thinly pleated victorian ruffles and zips that open either onto the skin or another layer of fabric, turning simple dresses into draped evening wear. Hand-dyed salt-and-pepper yarns turn into bright coloured sweaters-scarves. The Bomber is everywhere, elongated with silky crepe to turn into a coat or used as a shape on Trench- and Dufflecoats. The lower part on a fitted blazer is replaced with smocked denim, turning it into a ‘new Bomber’ making the collection go full circle.

 

Olivier Saillard on Lutz, ENCENS No.14

‘LUTZ, UN FONCTIONNALISME BAROQUE’ Samuel Drira in ENCENS

Olivier Zahm on Lutz in ENCENS No.14

‘LUTZ, UNE MONOGRAPHIE’ ENCENS No.14

‘Le createur allemand Lutz brouille les pistes avec ses vetements a personnalites multiples.’ Cedric St Andre Perrin on Lutz Huelle in MIXTE Magazine

‘SILENT REVOLUTION’ Sabrina Ciofi on Lutz Huelle: ‘In a world where appearances are what matter and lightness is all, it is easy to feel empty and out of place if you have a brain that thinks and something to say. While, as Shakespeare put it, there is much ado about nothing, and dazzling lights and sequins, rich prizes and cotillons are being used to distract attention from the way things really are, there are still some people who rebel, staging their opposition with calm, balance and simplicity. Because creativity is not always high-volume. Genius needs no advertisement. It’s just there. Lutz is one of those designers who promotes his style as a whisper. People love it or hate it because it is simple and easy to use, inspired in its bringing-together of things that are forgotten because they are so ordinary. Lutz talks about clothes, young women, life and serenity.’

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