LUTZ HUELLE NO.8 S/S 2004 ‘SPIRALING’ Still one of my favourite collections, this was based on twisting, knotting, spiraling fabric around the body. Inside and outside are worn visible at the same time, opening and showing parts of the body. This then made me think of other ways to ‘be naked while dressed’ : Replacing the shoulderline of Jackets with transparent straps, or cutting the shape of a tank top into a shirt. Huge oversized pants doubled as evening dresses. Trenchcoats and Shirts were remodeled as Bustiertops. This show earned us the famous page in ‘Libération’ the next day, with the Headline ‘LES BIMBOS AU PLACARD! (‘Bimbos are over!’).

LUTZ HUELLE F/W 2001 “A SMOKING, SOME SPORTSWEAR, SOME WORKWEAR AND A BUNCH OF FLOWERS’ This took the work I’d done in the first two collections- the sportswear references, the Tuxedo, the high-waisted pants and skirts worn with low, plunging necklines , the idea of ‘taking something and doing it in the opposite way’ to its conclusion, and became very much a blueprint for all of the work that followed: A Tuxedo was cut in the shape of a Bomber, a Work-Overall was cut with lapels in shiny silk; Tuxedo pants had drawstrings like jogging trousers. A big woolen scarf had waterproof silk panels attached to it to be worn as a cape or overskirt. Thick knitted Cardigans in a Jacquard of Wool and Lycra were worn like Fur Coats, over tailored Blazers in Pinstripe Wool. Socks made with different fabrics of the collection were worn tied onto high heeled soles with plastic strings. The show took place in the Garage of the Centre Pompidou in Paris.

LUTZ & COMME DES GARCONS #1, English Friends ‘Rei Kawakubo and young German Designer Lutz Huelle light up the millennium’s first summer. Fast friends from different eras, Anita Pallenberg, an actress and one of CarnabyStreet’s central Characters and a rock celebrity since the sixties and Kate Moss, fashion’s ultimate icon, were photographed by Juergen Teller in Wallenberg’s London residence, giving one generation a view onto the other.’ PURPLE FASHION Magazine, Spring/Summer 2000