Tag: Lutz Huelle

LUTZ HUELLE F/W 2001 “A SMOKING, SOME SPORTSWEAR, SOME WORKWEAR AND A BUNCH OF FLOWERS’ This took the work I’d done in the first two collections- the sportswear references, the Tuxedo, the high-waisted pants and skirts worn with low, plunging necklines , the idea of ‘taking something and doing it in the opposite way’ to its conclusion, and became very much a blueprint for all of the work that followed: A Tuxedo was cut in the shape of a Bomber, a Work-Overall was cut with lapels in shiny silk; Tuxedo pants had drawstrings like jogging trousers. A big woolen scarf had waterproof silk panels attached to it to be worn as a cape or overskirt. Thick knitted Cardigans in a Jacquard of Wool and Lycra were worn like Fur Coats, over tailored Blazers in Pinstripe Wool. Socks made with different fabrics of the collection were worn tied onto high heeled soles with plastic strings. The show took place in the Garage of the Centre Pompidou in Paris.

LUTZ & COMME DES GARCONS #1, English Friends ‘Rei Kawakubo and young German Designer Lutz Huelle light up the millennium’s first summer. Fast friends from different eras, Anita Pallenberg, an actress and one of CarnabyStreet’s central Characters and a rock celebrity since the sixties and Kate Moss, fashion’s ultimate icon, were photographed by Juergen Teller in Wallenberg’s London residence, giving one generation a view onto the other.’ PURPLE FASHION Magazine, Spring/Summer 2000

LUTZ HUELLE No.2 S/S 2001 ‘The Boxeuse’ Inspired by Boxing, and the slouchy attitude of clothes that are too long, too short, very low on the hips ,or very high up the waist. Jackets and Trenchcoats were gliding down the body, opening up shoulders and Decolletes; Pants and Skirts were riding up the body, elongating the shilhouette. Towels were worn with gold Cardigans as evening dresses, and the only Tailleur was in Sweatshirt, with Lurex Finishings.

Here’s my Central St.Martin’s Bachelor Collection, photographed by Anders Edström for the first ever issue of PURPLE FASHION Magazine. These photos were taken in the two months following my degree at Central St. Martin’s in London and starting work at Martin Margiela in Paris. I had been offered the job before finishing college ( I’d done several internships at Margiela during my time at CSM) and I had no plans to start my own collection, nevertheless I was really pleased to be part of this project. This is the collection I went back to when I started thinking about founding our own house with David almost 4 years later, and my first collection in 2000 was more or less a re-edition of my St.Martin’s Degree work. I have the most brilliant memories of Central St Martin’s, it was such a fabulous place to be , and London was on FIRE ! It really had such a profound impact on my life, in many ways everything that had happened before had just felt like a preclude. I was incredibly sad to leave London but also hugely excited to be starting work at Martin Margiela. Paris did feel small and narrow after the incredible energy of London and it took me a while to get used to it, falling in love certainly helped 🤗