S/S 2016

The initial idea behind this collection was to make clothes that were for and about the people I knew and spent my life with – real clothes for everyday life that were also complex and multifaceted. I wanted to work with the ease of sportswear, to use the sense of strength of masculine tailoring, the sophistication of evening and the raw energy and sex of the street , all mixed up in a way that would make these pieces seem familiar and new at the same time. I didn’t want people to look fashionable or trendy but unique and special and in a way ‘unreadable’- because they were wearing ‘unreadable’ clothes . Tailoring in Sweatshirt Jersey, towels as evening dresses, Boxing Pants in Pinstripe Wool and Trackpants in a fluid wool with a tuxedo stripe down the side. Long flowing Fringes on a men’s tailored Blazer, a draped trench that turns into a dress, and my beloved Bomber/Flight Jacket as a pleated evening dress. Thinking about a label to put into these clothes I came across an old “Starter” Baseball Jacket , with an embroidery of the S and a star intertwined , which gave me the idea of just using the word “Lutz”, not necessarily a sophisticated Designername but sounding more abstract, a word that meant nothing. I pulled the 4 letters together to embroider them like the S and the Star, and thought the result perfect: a hint of sportswear, a strange shape that could mean anyting, visually intriguing in its awkwardness.

 

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S/S 2016

“To hear Lutz Huelle speak about his clothes is to be on the receiving end of all sorts of mini revelations. To wit: “I like that something appears sexy because the person inside it decides it is going to be sexy.” The supporting evidence: a trench coat or gray jersey tunic that could be unzipped from the shoulder down the arm. Or else he’ll consider how a garment might exist in a fixed seductive state of sliding off the body; this he did by suspending the core of black parka from diamanté straps, flipping its raison d’être from outerwear to evening attire. Huelle operates from the premise that his designs need to end up being worn; otherwise, as he puts it, “What’s the point?” But his application of elasticized seaming to alter volumes, or the flapper fringing spilling forth from a boxy blazer also backed up his belief in “eccentric simplicity.” Amy Verner on S/S 2016 , Vogue Runway

http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/lutz-huelle To hear Lutz Huelle speak about his clothes is to be on the receiving end of all sorts of mini revelations. To wit: “I like that something appears sexy because the person inside it decides it is going to be sexy.” The supporting evidence: a trench coat or gray jersey tunic that could be […]

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S/S 2016

LUTZ HUELLE S/S 2016 “I was thinking about easy, almost slouchy clothes that are also sculptural and dramatic, a sort of twisted, excentric simplicity. Zipped Shoulders and sleeves on outerwear and elasticated seams that pull the volume of oversized Coats and Shirts. Nylon rib worn over shirts to act as corsets. Denim and pleated silk and mesh mixed together. Oversized Sequins and shards of silver plexi, and Sequins are embroidered on squares of organza and fixed as Motifs on Tops and Dresses. Finally two of my favourite things from the past- the fringed Men’s Blazer and a Parka worn as cocktail Dress make a re-appearance, somehow they felt right again, and because they make me happy.”

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