Tag: Lutz Huelle

LUTZ HUELLE NO.8 S/S 2004 ‘SPIRALING’ Still one of my favourite collections, this was based on twisting, knotting, spiraling fabric around the body. Inside and outside are worn visible at the same time, opening and showing parts of the body. This then made me think of other ways to ‘be naked while dressed’ : Replacing the shoulderline of Jackets with transparent straps, or cutting the shape of a tank top into a shirt. Huge oversized pants doubled as evening dresses. Trenchcoats and Shirts were remodeled as Bustiertops. This show earned us the famous page in ‘Libération’ the next day, with the Headline ‘LES BIMBOS AU PLACARD! (‘Bimbos are over!’).

‘SILENT REVOLUTION’ Sabrina Ciofi on Lutz Huelle: ‘In a world where appearances are what matter and lightness is all, it is easy to feel empty and out of place if you have a brain that thinks and something to say. While, as Shakespeare put it, there is much ado about nothing, and dazzling lights and sequins, rich prizes and cotillons are being used to distract attention from the way things really are, there are still some people who rebel, staging their opposition with calm, balance and simplicity. Because creativity is not always high-volume. Genius needs no advertisement. It’s just there. Lutz is one of those designers who promotes his style as a whisper. People love it or hate it because it is simple and easy to use, inspired in its bringing-together of things that are forgotten because they are so ordinary. Lutz talks about clothes, young women, life and serenity.’

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LUTZ HUELLE NO.7 F/W 2003 ‘THE SMITHS AT THE DISCO’ Listening to The Smiths’ ‘The Queen is dead’ on repeat.. the idea of mixing Glitter and the Ordinary : a Men’s Blazer with Fringes, striped Shirting is worn with sequinned TShirts, Sweatshirts in grey Jersey have wide glittering hems. A striped Mohair Sweater is draped around the Body. I asked myself: ‘How can I put the aggressive, ‘street’ attitude of a Bomberjacket into a pleated dress? The result was this: I fixed some of the pleats so they didn’t move, cut the shape of a Bomber ( those pockets, the rib finishing) into the pleats as if it was a flat fabric, then left the rest of the pleats open to move freely. Ideas from this collection keep on coming up in later collections, especially the fixed/nonfixed pleats that I’m still using today.