‘SILENT REVOLUTION’ Sabrina Ciofi on Lutz Huelle: ‘In a world where appearances are what matter and lightness is all, it is easy to feel empty and out of place if you have a brain that thinks and something to say. While, as Shakespeare put it, there is much ado about nothing, and dazzling lights and sequins, rich prizes and cotillons are being used to distract attention from the way things really are, there are still some people who rebel, staging their opposition with calm, balance and simplicity. Because creativity is not always high-volume. Genius needs no advertisement. It’s just there. Lutz is one of those designers who promotes his style as a whisper. People love it or hate it because it is simple and easy to use, inspired in its bringing-together of things that are forgotten because they are so ordinary. Lutz talks about clothes, young women, life and serenity.’

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‘THE SMITHS AT THE DISCO’ Fittings & Looks

LUTZ HUELLE NO.7 F/W 2003 ‘THE SMITHS AT THE DISCO’ Listening to The Smiths’ ‘The Queen is dead’ on repeat.. the idea of mixing Glitter and the Ordinary : a Men’s Blazer with Fringes, striped Shirting is worn with sequinned TShirts, Sweatshirts in grey Jersey have wide glittering hems. A striped Mohair Sweater is draped around the Body. I asked myself: ‘How can I put the aggressive, ‘street’ attitude of a Bomberjacket into a pleated dress? The result was this: I fixed some of the pleats so they didn’t move, cut the shape of a Bomber ( those pockets, the rib finishing) into the pleats as if it was a flat fabric, then left the rest of the pleats open to move freely. Ideas from this collection keep on coming up in later collections, especially the fixed/nonfixed pleats that I’m still using today.

 

LUTZ HUELLE NO.4 S/S 2002 ‘THE SUSPENDERS’ The 4th Collection, inspired by a pair of men’s suspenders: everything was hanging, suspended, held up or falling down, including the famous Chiffon Earrings. Also, Biker Jackets as knitted Cardigans or cotton shirts, tank tops in lace with striped knit finishings, and oversized knitted suspenders doubling as sweaters.

Lutz by Felipe Salgado, BE-GUIDED Magazine

LUTZ HUELLE F/W 2001 on the Cover of HANATSUBAKI, Tokyo

LUTZ HUELLE F/W 2001 Looks from the Show

LUTZ HUELLE F/W 2001 “A SMOKING, SOME SPORTSWEAR, SOME WORKWEAR AND A BUNCH OF FLOWERS’ This took the work I’d done in the first two collections- the sportswear references, the Tuxedo, the high-waisted pants and skirts worn with low, plunging necklines , the idea of ‘taking something and doing it in the opposite way’ to its conclusion, and became very much a blueprint for all of the work that followed: A Tuxedo was cut in the shape of a Bomber, a Work-Overall was cut with lapels in shiny silk; Tuxedo pants had drawstrings like jogging trousers. A big woolen scarf had waterproof silk panels attached to it to be worn as a cape or overskirt. Thick knitted Cardigans in a Jacquard of Wool and Lycra were worn like Fur Coats, over tailored Blazers in Pinstripe Wool. Socks made with different fabrics of the collection were worn tied onto high heeled soles with plastic strings. The show took place in the Garage of the Centre Pompidou in Paris.

LUTZ HUELLE No.2 S/S 2001 ‘The Boxeuse’ Inspired by Boxing, and the slouchy attitude of clothes that are too long, too short, very low on the hips ,or very high up the waist. Jackets and Trenchcoats were gliding down the body, opening up shoulders and Decolletes; Pants and Skirts were riding up the body, elongating the shilhouette. Towels were worn with gold Cardigans as evening dresses, and the only Tailleur was in Sweatshirt, with Lurex Finishings.

‘Relecture toute personelle des archétypes de la garderobe la plus classique, totalement reconstruite, fendue, dézippé, sanglé,boutonnée, la prémière collection de ce créateur allemand a retenu l’attention par son originalité. Invention discrète d’une silhouette délibérément à l’écart d’un néoglamour ostentatoire’ Cédric Saint André Perrin on Lutz Huelle’s F/W 2000 Collection, LIBERATION