PURPLE #14 Fall 2002 Photos: Giasco Bertoli, Styling: Lutz Huelle (Part 1) “Italian Photographer Giasco Bertoli collaborated with German fashion designer Lutz Huelle for this series. Together they combined sports, military, and designer clothes to examine and define their version of casual style. These pictures are the result of their explorations. Turning away from dumbed-down american streetwear here are quasi militant, casually sportif, simply designed, intelligent, nostalgic,home-spun,radical chic- the contradiction of pricy and cheap, sophisticated and basic, styled like a political signal.”

2 Years before Karl Lagerfeld for H&M, 4 Years before Yamamoto and Adidas and Y3, Lutz and Giasco put together … More

LUTZ HUELLE NO.8 S/S 2004 ‘SPIRALING’ Still one of my favourite collections, this was based on twisting, knotting, spiraling fabric around the body. Inside and outside are worn visible at the same time, opening and showing parts of the body. This then made me think of other ways to ‘be naked while dressed’ : Replacing the shoulderline of Jackets with transparent straps, or cutting the shape of a tank top into a shirt. Huge oversized pants doubled as evening dresses. Trenchcoats and Shirts were remodeled as Bustiertops. This show earned us the famous page in ‘Libération’ the next day, with the Headline ‘LES BIMBOS AU PLACARD! (‘Bimbos are over!’).

LUTZ HUELLE NO.7 F/W 2003 ‘THE SMITHS AT THE DISCO’ Listening to The Smiths’ ‘The Queen is dead’ on repeat.. the idea of mixing Glitter and the Ordinary : a Men’s Blazer with Fringes, striped Shirting is worn with sequinned TShirts, Sweatshirts in grey Jersey have wide glittering hems. A striped Mohair Sweater is draped around the Body. I asked myself: ‘How can I put the aggressive, ‘street’ attitude of a Bomberjacket into a pleated dress? The result was this: I fixed some of the pleats so they didn’t move, cut the shape of a Bomber ( those pockets, the rib finishing) into the pleats as if it was a flat fabric, then left the rest of the pleats open to move freely. Ideas from this collection keep on coming up in later collections, especially the fixed/nonfixed pleats that I’m still using today.