LUTZ HUELLE NO.8 S/S 2004 ‘SPIRALING’ Still one of my favourite collections, this was based on twisting, knotting, spiraling fabric around the body. Inside and outside are worn visible at the same time, opening and showing parts of the body. This then made me think of other ways to ‘be naked while dressed’ : Replacing the shoulderline of Jackets with transparent straps, or cutting the shape of a tank top into a shirt. Huge oversized pants doubled as evening dresses. Trenchcoats and Shirts were remodeled as Bustiertops. This show earned us the famous page in ‘Libération’ the next day, with the Headline ‘LES BIMBOS AU PLACARD! (‘Bimbos are over!’).

‘SILENT REVOLUTION’ Sabrina Ciofi on Lutz Huelle: ‘In a world where appearances are what matter and lightness is all, it is easy to feel empty and out of place if you have a brain that thinks and something to say. While, as Shakespeare put it, there is much ado about nothing, and dazzling lights and sequins, rich prizes and cotillons are being used to distract attention from the way things really are, there are still some people who rebel, staging their opposition with calm, balance and simplicity. Because creativity is not always high-volume. Genius needs no advertisement. It’s just there. Lutz is one of those designers who promotes his style as a whisper. People love it or hate it because it is simple and easy to use, inspired in its bringing-together of things that are forgotten because they are so ordinary. Lutz talks about clothes, young women, life and serenity.’

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LUTZ HUELLE F/W 2001 “A SMOKING, SOME SPORTSWEAR, SOME WORKWEAR AND A BUNCH OF FLOWERS’ This took the work I’d done in the first two collections- the sportswear references, the Tuxedo, the high-waisted pants and skirts worn with low, plunging necklines , the idea of ‘taking something and doing it in the opposite way’ to its conclusion, and became very much a blueprint for all of the work that followed: A Tuxedo was cut in the shape of a Bomber, a Work-Overall was cut with lapels in shiny silk; Tuxedo pants had drawstrings like jogging trousers. A big woolen scarf had waterproof silk panels attached to it to be worn as a cape or overskirt. Thick knitted Cardigans in a Jacquard of Wool and Lycra were worn like Fur Coats, over tailored Blazers in Pinstripe Wool. Socks made with different fabrics of the collection were worn tied onto high heeled soles with plastic strings. The show took place in the Garage of the Centre Pompidou in Paris.