“…No es que nunca hayamos visto este tipo de recursos lúdicos en la moda, pero este diseñador alemán, afincado en París, lo hace con la elegancia de esos magos que hacen trucos con una simple baraja de cartas, sin demasiados artificios, ni pretensiones, pero que te dejan flipado. Pues eso.” NEO2 on F\W 2016

For the whole article and photos please click below http://www.neo2.es/blog/2016/03/lutz-huelle-fw16-17/ Lo que de primeras parece una simple chaleco vaquero, como … More

LUTZ HUELLE F/W 2016 ‘Adding volume to the body without oversizing it. Tripling the front panels of a tailored coat in camel and a red sleeveless trench in wool, causing its volume to overspill. Denim jackets go from simple breasted to “triple breasted”, by adding length they become asymmetrical, sweeping coats. The same was done to my beloved bombers: adding contrasting panels and finishings in double wool, they turn into a new sort of trench coat, combining the strength and attitude of the former with the sophistication of the latter. Denim is also combined with fluid crepe or gold sequins for dresses that go from early morning listening to late night dancing in the flicker of an eye. The same sequins, worn as oversized earrings add sparkle to even the simplest of looks. Pleated dresses are finished with jersey, adding the ease of sportswear to evening. Finally, a group of zipped overskirts in light wool, pinstripe and denim act as oversized belts, cinching volume at the waist of dresses and shirts. The same skirts, cut in transparent plastic, protect dresses or pants in an eventual burst of rain, a sort of “dress-umbrella”. To cut a long story short – this collection became about everything I have always loved, a sort of concentrate of my favourite obsessions.’

LUTZ HUELLE S/S 2016 “I was thinking about easy, almost slouchy clothes that are also sculptural and dramatic, a sort of twisted, excentric simplicity. Zipped Shoulders and sleeves on outerwear and elasticated seams that pull the volume of oversized Coats and Shirts. Nylon rib worn over shirts to act as corsets. Denim and pleated silk and mesh mixed together. Oversized Sequins and shards of silver plexi, and Sequins are embroidered on squares of organza and fixed as Motifs on Tops and Dresses. Finally two of my favourite things from the past- the fringed Men’s Blazer and a Parka worn as cocktail Dress make a re-appearance, somehow they felt right again, and because they make me happy.”