Tag: WWD

“Lutz Huelle nailed his one-off collection for AZ Factory as its latest guest “amigo,” perfectly capturing the offhand couture look pioneered by its late founder Alber Elbaz. Huelle, who has been showing his signature brand in Paris since 2000, brought a wealth of experience and skill to the project, seen in the smooth cut of blurred floral raincoats and dusters, the ultra-cool, dressy-looking jeans, and the sharp tuxedo tailoring that opened the display. He has a knack for giving approachable clothes and accessories visual oomph: Denim shirts and jackets came zhuzhed up with panels of sequins; T-shirts and jeans were fronted with big crystals, and shirts were cut large to catch the wind in the back, like parachutes.” Miles Socha on AZ Factory with Lutz Huelle on WWD

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Titled “Le Pyjama Rose” Lutz Huelle’s spring presentation film showed his pieces on women of various body types, styles and ages. The designs grew out of an extended period of inactivity, he explained, in a FaceTime call. “It almost seemed obscene thinking about fashion with people being in so much pain — it took me a month of thinking,” said Huelle, recalling his struggle to find purpose in work at the beginning of the lockdown period. “And then I realized, I have to start where I am and the first thing I looked at was the pyjama,” he said, popping out of his seat to grab his latest creation. Wow! The screen went pink — hot pink. Here was the star of the lineup, a pair of pyjamas made of a silky viscose — “you can put it in the machine, you can use it forever.”He wanted the ensemble to make people feel good lounging about the house, but also be able to wear it outside, even to go dancing, when such activities resume.” Mimosa Spencer on Lutz Huelle Spring Summer 21 on WWD.

Along a similar vein, Huelle constructed a pouffy-sleeved housecoat, made of taffeta, and he demonstrated how the scrunched sleeves could … More

‘…He turned his focus on transparency, using an ultralight black mesh, often with polkadots, layering it over short, puffy sleeves, making them larger, or longer, and in one case, adding a chic touch to a light blue cotton shirtdress. Other times the layering felt a bit haphazard — those polka-dotted legs shooting out from under a thick trenchcoat were surprising in a slightly jarring sense —  likely his intention.  Known for his obsession with bombers and jean jackets — which he remakes entirely — for spring, he crafted an attractive and rather dressy version, cutting out the neck of a white jean jacket and replacing it with a sheen of the black see-through mesh, gently gathered and trimmed with a line of tight ruffles.’ Mimosa Spencer on Lutz Huelle SS20 on WWD

French and flirty, in the designer’s description, the collection proved he is not neglecting his namesake label Lest anyone worry … More

“…this whole notion of old and new is completely gone, in a way, because a beautiful garment is a beautiful garment…there’s no rule about how people dress these days,” the designer observed backstage before the show. Taking full advantage of this welcome state of affairs, he offered a lineup of deconstructed jean jackets, bombers with ruffles or drawn tight to the waist with a Fifties New Look flair, and, what he claimed to be his first jacquard cocktail dress. This, he tucked under a trenchcoat and, in a pin-striped version, layered on top of matching trousers. (..) The alligator print was very chic. So were the polka dots (..) applied to a dress paired with matching boots. The added measure of elegance overall contributed to the strength of this forward-looking collection.” Mimosa Spencer on LUTZ HUELLE SS19 on WWD

to read the whole review and see the Collection on WWD click here