The exhibition La pensée corps brings together the work of Alexandra Bircken and Lutz Huelle, both of whom are linked to questions of identity, intimacy, permeability and vulnerability of the human being. What links them is a style with forms that are alternately fractured and assembled, cut and sutured, and a long history of friendship.

This exhibition is not about the relationship between art and fashion, even though it is a natural one. The focus is … More

“Working on a project with a close friend is usually the kind of thing you dream up over drinks and hardly ever get to put into reality. Not so for Berlin-based Alexandra Bircken — a former designer and present-day artist creating “non-functional objects” — and Paris-based Lutz Huelle, who launched his eponymous label in 2000 after working for Martin Margiela for three years. Friends since they were teens, the two were shaped by the same music, by the magnitude of the Berlin Wall coming down, and by the desire to move to London to study fashion. Alexandra has modelled for Lutz since she was a student, and been in his official défilés too. Their friendship is rounded out by Wolfgang Tillmans, with whom they form a sort of loose creative throuple.” Sarah Moroz in conversation with Alexandra Bircken and Lutz Huelle for iD Magazine

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“Lutz Huelle nailed his one-off collection for AZ Factory as its latest guest “amigo,” perfectly capturing the offhand couture look pioneered by its late founder Alber Elbaz. Huelle, who has been showing his signature brand in Paris since 2000, brought a wealth of experience and skill to the project, seen in the smooth cut of blurred floral raincoats and dusters, the ultra-cool, dressy-looking jeans, and the sharp tuxedo tailoring that opened the display. He has a knack for giving approachable clothes and accessories visual oomph: Denim shirts and jackets came zhuzhed up with panels of sequins; T-shirts and jeans were fronted with big crystals, and shirts were cut large to catch the wind in the back, like parachutes.” Miles Socha on AZ Factory with Lutz Huelle on WWD

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“I think we are all looking for something that’s simple and is touching and emotional without trying so hard, muses Huelle. His hybrids, like Elbaz’s exposed zippers and seams, speak to the joy of making and improvising, and in so doing seem to acknowledge that life, and creation, can be glorious in their messiness. “In the end, it’s just about the clothes, and I think that was always also Alber’s way of seeing things,” the designer notes. Of course these clothes play out in the theater of life as well as the theatre de la mode. Huelle’s focus on clothes is based on a belief in his chosen field. The “incredible thing about fashion,” he enthuses, is “it’s so multifaceted and so complicated and so extreme in many ways because it’s literally about everything. It’s about our lives.” Lutz talks to Laird Borrelli-Persson about AZ Factory on VOGUE RUNWAY

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“..the sheer joy and the sparkle of AZ Factory, where resident designer Lutz Huelle gave the familiar Alber Elbaz tropes an urban, fresh spin.” Angelo Flaccavento on AZ Factory with Lutz Huelle on BoF

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“It’s very much what I like,” said Huelle, who is a designer-wardrobe builder, not a trend chaser. “But it’s also more glamorous and a little more sexy.” Nicole Phelps on AZ Factory with Lutz Huelle on VOGUE RUNWAY

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“Huelle, a German who lives in Paris, is one of the most interesting indie designers in fashion, famous in a strange way for having his best ideas copied by many lesser talents. With this collection, it was about him respecting, and yet extending, the DNA of a house founded by the late great Alber Elbaz, a creator of clear and powerful codes.Thankfully, the result was a balanced cocktail of Huelle’s street style, delicacy with denim and sense of rock n roll, married to the hipster grand couture of Elbaz, blended with the one virtual show Alber created for AZ Factory.” Godfrey Deeny on AZ Factory with Lutz Huelle on FASHION NETWORK

to read the whole article go here The unstated question entering the one-off collection of Lutz Huelle for AZ Factory … More

LUTZ HUELLE F/W 2022 watch the film

All looks of LUTZ HUELLE Fall/Winter 2022.. Tailoring and Suits, Denim, Frills and Bombers.. and a lot of our favourite things, including the Shawlbomber, the Shadowpant, and the Rose Top.

All looks of LUTZ HUELLE Spring/ Summer 2022 “Going out, dressing up, having fun..Day into evening into night and vice versa, clothes that mix and match between day and night and work both on a dancefloor and sitting behind a desk.Roomy coats in embroidered Organza are worn over shirt dresses in checked Cotton.The same shirts have details in golden sequins and embroidered panels in laser cut chiffon circles.Gold sequinned finishings are also attached to a denim jacket and vest, a boxy jacket cut in a soft sweater jersey and under the collar of an oversized Men’s blazer.T-Shirts in fluid, technical jersey have double hems in taffetas, adding a touch of drama to a simple look of pants and T-Shirt.Petal-shaped sleeves are attached to a top and Dress in Jersey, transforming a simple T-Shirt into a Couture Top.Fluid dresses in silk crepe are worn over brightly coloured Boots.A jacket-cape in taffetas adds a dramatic silhouette to everyday pieces.In our Men’s Debut, the LUTZ Bomber and Denim jacket are worn over large, roomy pants in light fluid wool.Denim and Cargo Pants are cut and sliced together diagonally, creating a graphic effect when worn with a tank top and T-Shirt worked in the same way.Finally, a T-shirt with petal sleeves in taffetas over a pair of Jeans, and a Top with a taffetas hem worn over a diagonal cargo pants look just as good on a man as they do on a woman, and illustrate perfectly what my work has always been about: A sense of freedom and unlimited possibilities.”