Author: lutzhuelle

Do you remember the first time ? Here’s mine, Fall/Winter 2000. I had spent 6 months on the preparation of this collection, taking my Central St. Martin’s degree work from 1995 as a starting point: “Change the silhouette. Super-high waistline. Skinny legs and volume on top. Mix neutrals and strong colours. Make in knit what is normally made in fabric. Place on top what is normally underneath. Make everything supersmall or superbig, bodycon or oversized. Wear everything together. Sexy and non-sexy.” We organized a show at Fabrice Hybert’s studio, which was just down the road from our own office, not having the slightest idea if anyone would actually turn up. It’s still one of my most cherished ( as well as nerve-wrecking) memories. Photographed by Wolfgang Tillmans.

I sometimes think about that day .. I’d met Karl before, as member of the jury at the Festival d’Hyeres.. we sat next to each other during the show, and chatted throughout. He was utterly charming and he made me laugh with his kinda dry sense of humour typical of people from Northern Germany.I was flattered when he invited me to the shoot organized by Nicole Picard for Madame Le Figaro- after all I was very much an independent and undergound-ish designer ( which is just a more romantic way of saying ‘under the radar’ ), but he told me he loved my work and that he wanted me to be part of this. He was slightly dubious about the fit of my Tshirt though, and pinched it together in the back with a clip for the photo 😎 .. It’s still such a brilliant memory for me, because he made me feel that I belonged there, with my strange mix of sportswear and couture that most of Paris really didn’t care too much about at the time. I’ll always be grateful to him , and I’m just so pleased I got to meet this extraordinary man. ❤️

I had an interesting conversation yesterday with someone about why I communicate about pieces that might not be available at this moment in time- designs from past collections, or pieces that are long sold out, the question implying, basically : “What is the point in making an effort in publicising anything if it’s not for sale? “

The answer, for me is manifold: I’ve never understood why Fashion is supposed to lose its value after 6 months, … More

Here’s a little preview of some of the pieces for the coming Fall/ Winter 2023 Collection 🤗 There’s the Wrap Coat, constructed out of a square of water-repellent technical cotton, the Slant Denim Jacket made from a selected vintage piece with an insert of technical cotton, turning it into a double-breasted Denim Jacket, the Duvet Bomber, the Sparkle Jacket 💫 the Capucine Jacket, (a Baseball Jacket with tulip sleeves in pink faille), the Magic Dress (cut from a square shape of knife pleats flowing around the body) the Fleur Top (a new, more dramatic version of our Couture T-Shirts with rounded sleeves in Taffetas) , the Scar Denim Jacket with its rounded hourglass shape cut into an oversized Denim Jacket, and finally the Silver Band Denim Pants, printed with a band of metallic silver foil at the front 😎 .. any early favourites?

When the world suddenly seemed to stand still during those first days of lockdown and I had nothing to do apart from re-arranging my office and staring at an empty collection board I kept wondering how to continue working.. so I finally came up with just going back to the absolute basics, to design a T-shirt for everyone.

The only way to do this was to show how to make one yourself, without any prior knowledge of sewing … More

Every now and then while scrolling through my photos I come across images of the fittings of the ‘Lost Collection’ at Delpozo – the one that would have officially been my debut show. I am still just a little sad at all the lost potential- It was the perfect situation of a brilliant team and incredible pattern cutters and atelier.. some of the most beautiful and beautifully made pieces I’ve ever seen in my life were made there- such care and love was involved in making these garments.I do hope that somehow one day this gorgeous brand will be resurrected and shine again .. in the meantime here are a few images of what could have been. .. and my sincere and heartfelt thank you goes out to every single person I had the privilege to work with at Delpozo ❤️

People have always asked when we would start a Men’s Collection, and it’s been on the cards for long time .. As long as we exist guys have bought pieces of the women’s collection and I have always loved a men’s jacket or shirt worn by a woman. During lockdown I started trying on the more couture-influenced pieces of the collection and, instead of it looking forced or strange it seemed to me just a different way of looking at masculinity. The next season I started adding a few unisex pieces , and I put some guys in some of the more dramatic styles , always mixing with denim or army, or simple Tshirts . Here’s a collection of past men’s looks , including the Bombers and Denim that have become Signatures. What do you think? Would you wear pink ? 😈