Tag: cult fashion

“On my last day I saw two wonderful shows, Lutz Huelle and Sacai. Huelle, who worked closely with Martin Margiela, has been quietly designing truly excellent fashion for years without much recognition from the fashion system. His experience shows in expertly combined garments that are chic, fashion-forward, and eminently wearable all at once. This collection was everything I miss about the ‘90s but updated for today; nonchalance, sophisticated sexiness, confidence, and — gasp — fun! Fun is the word fashion has forgotten. Fashion was fun in the ‘80s and the ‘90s. Now it is serious business in which everything is airtight to the point of suffocation. Huelle’s show, where the soundtrack went from Patti Smith to Italo disco, was a reminder that it doesn’t have to be this way.” Eugene Rabkin on LUTZ HUELLE SS24 on STYLE ZEITGEIST

I saw you .. walking in the Rain.. Fall/Winter 2012/13 Watching people covering themselves against the rain during a sudden downpour made me think of oversized hoods, crinkled coated cottons and other shiny surfaces. It was the first season of the coats with draped, generous front panels wrapping around the body, like pulling a coat closer in a sudden burst of rain .. there was also the draped, hooded Biker Jacket that became a staple in the collection for years afterwards. My favourite look was the shortsleeved biker jacket in wool worn over a superhighwaisted pant and caramel gloves ❤️‍🔥

..the thing with inspiration is that it’s never foreseeable nor can it be planned. I’ve spent hours staring at a white page waiting in vain for the sparks to fly, only to be waking up at three in the morning with my brain on fire 😝This collection, Spring/ Summer 2014, happened while sitting in a cab going to work in Italy. I had arrived in the morning and stepped out of the plane into gorgeous sunshine, and for a second I had an incredible urge to tell the driver to go past the factory and straight to the next beach… so this collection became about spending the day at the beach still dressed for work- a collection in black bleached out by the sun. Tie-dye, fading prints, stripes, bleached knits and wet- look wool and denim, as if having rushed into the sea with your suit still on. Dresses and tops were draped like towels slung over the shoulders or tied around the waist. My favourite look was a bleached biker jacket, partly draped, worn over a pair of oversized denim pants bleached out towards the upper part.

I had an interesting conversation yesterday with someone about why I communicate about pieces that might not be available at this moment in time- designs from past collections, or pieces that are long sold out, the question implying, basically : “What is the point in making an effort in publicising anything if it’s not for sale? “

The answer, for me is manifold: I’ve never understood why Fashion is supposed to lose its value after 6 months, … More

LUTZ HUELLE S/S 2013 ‘Gestures’ I was thinking of gestures, poise – how a simple tilt of the head, a flick of the shoulders, the way one leg advances to balance the body, hands in pockets, can transform the most mundane situation into one of grace and beauty . The staples of an everyday wardrobe, infused with a “couture like” spirit : lowering the neckline and raising the waist, turning embroidered crystals into graphic prints, elongating a baseball jacket with silk organza, and cutting a parka in fluid crocodile print georgette.