LUTZ HUELLE #1 ‘ THE DEBUT’ The Show, Photos: Wolfgang Tillmans

SHOWSTUDIO Alex Fury on LUTZ HUELLE No.21

Tinkering with tailoring seems to be seasonal obsession with designers for Autumn/Winter 2010 – if a pocket can be displaced, … More

‘The Umbrellas’ Backstage Photos by Sonny Vandevelde

LUTZ HUELLE No.17 F/W 2008 ‘THE UMBRELLAS’ Inspired by the shape of an opened umbrella, jackets, trenchs and coats are cut adding volume to the sides. Different shades of brilliant red and yellow are draped together to create a swirling effect on dresses. Chunky knits are taken in and draped at the shoulder.

Diane Pernet’s Film on Lutz for GWAND 2004

LUTZ HUELLE NO.8 S/S 2004 ‘SPIRALING’ Still one of my favourite collections, this was based on twisting, knotting, spiraling fabric around the body. Inside and outside are worn visible at the same time, opening and showing parts of the body. This then made me think of other ways to ‘be naked while dressed’ : Replacing the shoulderline of Jackets with transparent straps, or cutting the shape of a tank top into a shirt. Huge oversized pants doubled as evening dresses. Trenchcoats and Shirts were remodeled as Bustiertops. This show earned us the famous page in ‘Libération’ the next day, with the Headline ‘LES BIMBOS AU PLACARD! (‘Bimbos are over!’).

Lutz by Felipe Salgado, BE-GUIDED Magazine

Backstage with Lutz at the Centre Pompidou F/W 2001

  

LUTZ HUELLE F/W 2001 “A SMOKING, SOME SPORTSWEAR, SOME WORKWEAR AND A BUNCH OF FLOWERS’ This took the work I’d done in the first two collections- the sportswear references, the Tuxedo, the high-waisted pants and skirts worn with low, plunging necklines , the idea of ‘taking something and doing it in the opposite way’ to its conclusion, and became very much a blueprint for all of the work that followed: A Tuxedo was cut in the shape of a Bomber, a Work-Overall was cut with lapels in shiny silk; Tuxedo pants had drawstrings like jogging trousers. A big woolen scarf had waterproof silk panels attached to it to be worn as a cape or overskirt. Thick knitted Cardigans in a Jacquard of Wool and Lycra were worn like Fur Coats, over tailored Blazers in Pinstripe Wool. Socks made with different fabrics of the collection were worn tied onto high heeled soles with plastic strings. The show took place in the Garage of the Centre Pompidou in Paris.

LUTZ HUELLE No.2 S/S 2001 ‘The Boxeuse’ Inspired by Boxing, and the slouchy attitude of clothes that are too long, too short, very low on the hips ,or very high up the waist. Jackets and Trenchcoats were gliding down the body, opening up shoulders and Decolletes; Pants and Skirts were riding up the body, elongating the shilhouette. Towels were worn with gold Cardigans as evening dresses, and the only Tailleur was in Sweatshirt, with Lurex Finishings.