“For the designer Lutz Huelle, combining fabrics or garments has become a signature, and a way of expressing difference. “We are not as simple as fashion wants us to be,” he says. “We are more complex. It makes you question.” Huelle founded his own label in 2000, after working closely with Martin Margiela, and his AW18 show had blue denim jackets sliced on the horizontal and matched with black brocade, and wool coats with vertical panels of metallic quilted lining. “It demands the person wearing it to be really open,” says Huelle. “When I first started doing it, it was difficult for people to understand. If you’re wearing these things, it’s about you.” He means the attention that will be received, the way the garment attracts curiosity. Like: “Why are you wearing two pairs of trousers?” Huelle says he also likes how these garments confuse signals. “People judge so quickly. They look at someone and what they’re wearing and think, ‘That’s who they are.’ But if they are wearing something that contrasts, you look at them and think, ‘I want to know this person.’ ” Maybe half-half garments expose the untruth we believe about our bodies — that they are symmetrical. Look in a mirror right now: one eye is higher than the other, shoulders slope differently, hips make us take an angled stance. Human bodies don’t all perfectly line up, why should clothes? ” Charlie Porter writes about “Hybrid” Clothes in the FINANCIAL TIMES

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“…What’s also happening now is that designers make clothes for people as opposed to making them for a fashion show, which has always been my main preoccupation anyway. Obviously, as these clothes are much closer to reality, it also changes the general aesthetic of fashion. I have never understood the idea of creating clothes for a fashion show and then selling something different afterwards. Saint Laurent and Chanel were such important designers because they dressed people above anything else, and that is what is happening again now.” Read Lutz Huelle in conversation with Pedro Canicoba in MANY OF THEM Magazine

“C’est drôle comme parfois le cycle de la mode vous rattrape au vol. L’Allemand – ou plutôt « l’Européen » comme il dit - Lutz Huelle est resté fidèle à sa signature (appliquée sur le cœur ou dans le dos des vestes en jean) depuis ses débuts, en 2000. Peut-être parce que son univers, nourri de ses années de jeunesse dans les nineties, rejoint l’air du temps, on regarde avec un œil neuf ses silhouettes de robes en soie « twistée », ses blouses à pressions qui tombent sur l’épaule, ses robes portefeuille en toile camouflage bordée de rose ou ses bombers qui muent en jupe longue de crêpe. S’il épaule façon aileron ses longues chemises de garçon sans manches et ses trenchs, l’allure possède cette féminité accessible et bienveillante. « J’ai le sentiment que, comme il y a vingt ans, tout est ouvert. Dans ce chaos qui nous entoure, tout est à réinventer », dit cet incorrigible optimiste au sourire lumineux.” Helene Guillaume on LUTZ HUELLE SS17 in LE FIGARO