‘On the soundtrack, the Vivaldi violins kept getting chased off by the commanding voices of Beth Ditto and Courtney Love. Huelle has been laying the ground work for a deeper invasion of bourgeois territory; hopefully he can prolong the stay. His plans are to carry on with his namesake label even as he takes up the new mission at Delpozo. “It’s amazing, these are exciting times,” he said enthused.’ Mimosa Spencer on Lutz Huelle FW19 on WWD

Photo by Sonny Vandevelde for pictures and the whole article click here Out with the jeans — Lutz Huelle was … More

Lutz Huelle F/W 2019 ‘The Voyageuse’ Travelling like never before in my life got me thinking about ease and movement, even in pieces that we are not supposed to travel in. I have always loved the idea of wearing dramatic pieces to do boring things- going to the supermarket in a pink bubblecoat might make the experience so much more enjoyable, also, you never know who you might run into. Roomy capes in double wool or fluid wool crepe are like blankets that fall over the shoulders. Another cape in beige cotton gabardine or rainproof nylon is worn as a sleeveless raincoat, with a hoodie underneath cut in lurex jacquard to cover the arms. A pink ‘Lantern-Sleeve’ jacket is worn with a soft mohair jumper and permanently creased skirt that even after hours of sitting on a plane will look perfect- it cannot be creased anymore than it already is. A biker jacket and wool coat have oversized, draped hoods or collars to huddle in while sitting in drafty airport lobbys. Cotton shirts have folded, plunging necklines, with added waterfall diamanté necklaces and earrings they turn into an evening dress the time it takes to rush from a cab into the ballroom. A bubble raincoat in black nylon is both protective and comforting, cut in pink taffetas it tuns into a dramatic operacoat. Finally, long skirts in silver jacquard are paired with mohair sweaters and jewellery: perfect for both lounging on the sofa and hitting the town. Photos Show by Gio Staiano Header Photo by Kira Bunse

LUTZ HUELLE S/S 2018 “I was thinking about how there is no more generational gap in how we dress – Mothers dressing like their daughters, daughters raiding the closets of their mothers (or their fathers !), and how even the idea of “old” or “new” seems old today. So, this collection became about a certain classicism or even elegance put into the context of how we dress today. A Trenchcoat in pure cotton has its sleeves cut into an exaggerated Bell shape to add a sense of drama to a simple wardrobe staple. A Jacquard cocktail Dress (a first for me !) is worn under a men’s Trench or cut in Pinstripe wool over matching pants. Coats with oversized sleeves and tiny shoulders cut in classic motifs of roses, dots, or animalier are worn over sweatshirts or oversized men’s shirts. Denim Jackets and Bombers have swathes of Jacquard ruffles attached to the front or are cut into tiny waisted Jackets. Worn with fluid skirts they transform the classic silhouette of fitted jacket and skirt. Finally, a men’s shirt and classic dotted blouse have their front panels twisted to reveal the body underneath in an unexpected way.”

‘…Lutz Huelle fut assistant de Martin Margiela. Si une filiation peut se lire dans quelques détournements, point de pâles copies ici. D’immenses manches gigot se greffent sur le buste de vestons formels. Des panneaux de brocart ou lamé sont incrustés sur les devants de bombers, de vestes de jeans ou de parkas imperméables, leur donnant une allure folle et originale. Des jupes et des robes bouillonnées confirment l’orientation plus haut de gamme du designer allemand basé à Paris… ‘ Frédéric Martin-Bernard on Lutz Huelle F/W18 in LE FIGARO

read the whole text and view the collection here http://madame.lefigaro.fr/defiles/lutz-huelle/automne-hiver-2018-2019/pret-a-porter-0/147586

“C’est drôle comme parfois le cycle de la mode vous rattrape au vol. L’Allemand – ou plutôt « l’Européen » comme il dit - Lutz Huelle est resté fidèle à sa signature (appliquée sur le cœur ou dans le dos des vestes en jean) depuis ses débuts, en 2000. Peut-être parce que son univers, nourri de ses années de jeunesse dans les nineties, rejoint l’air du temps, on regarde avec un œil neuf ses silhouettes de robes en soie « twistée », ses blouses à pressions qui tombent sur l’épaule, ses robes portefeuille en toile camouflage bordée de rose ou ses bombers qui muent en jupe longue de crêpe. S’il épaule façon aileron ses longues chemises de garçon sans manches et ses trenchs, l’allure possède cette féminité accessible et bienveillante. « J’ai le sentiment que, comme il y a vingt ans, tout est ouvert. Dans ce chaos qui nous entoure, tout est à réinventer », dit cet incorrigible optimiste au sourire lumineux.” Helene Guillaume on LUTZ HUELLE SS17 in LE FIGARO