“..un vêtement Lutz est très parlant en lui-même. Après des années 90 qui ont été comme une page blanche de la mode, sa relecture du vestiaire quotidien injecte une création visible au sein de vêtements que le siècle dernier avait littéralement aseptisés. Comme Nicolas Ghesquière pour Balenciaga, la force de Lutz est de réinventer le banal par un artifice de construction qui nous le re-révèle. En ce temps de désir en créations singulières, c’est une façon d’envisager une rupture avec ce qui est derrière nous qui forcément m’interpelle.” Olivier Saillard in conversation with Samuel Drira , ENCENS Magazine, 2004

The first time I met Maria Luisa, I didn’t actually meet her – seeing her in the showroom at Margiela every season, we’d always been anxious to know her opinion about the latest collection , but I had never dared to speak to her. The day she came to see my first collection I was on my way to the office, at the time in the Rue de L’Aqueduc, behind the Gare du Nord. Walking towards the building, I saw her standing in front of the door , this incredibly elegant, beautiful woman, and in a moment of Panic I turned around and left. She’d come to have a look at the collection – and for me this meant make or break. She became the first person ever to buy the collection, a huge confidence booster and, as it turned out, an enormous help when I then took the collection to Italy in search of a producer. Mentioning Maria Luisa opened literally every door. Her immense talent and open-mindedness, her enthusiasm and generosity were a huge inspiration and continue to be so- her legacy will live on in all those she helped and believed in, and in whose careers she played such an important part.

18 Lutz Looks 2000-2012

These are the 18 Looks selected for the Show in Dunedin, and they represent in a nutshell Lutz’s work.